Scotland to Paris via Amsterdam by Train and Ferry – A Unique and Scenic Journey
To return from Edinburgh to Paris, I had the choice to do as on the way there: take the night train to London, then the Eurostar. But I discovered a maritime connection between Newcastle and Amsterdam, which made me want to try a more original alternative.
In this article, I recount my return journey, and the least we can say is that it was a very different experience!
From Paris to Scotland: a Nine-Day Journey by Train and Ferry, without Planes and almost without Cars
In March 2025, I decided to visit Scotland without taking a plane, favoring comfortable means of transport, especially those that please me!
For the outbound journey, I did everything by train: from Paris to London with the Eurostar, then from London to Fort William in a sleeper car aboard the Caledonian Sleeper. An original and successful journey, which I recount in this first article of this series dedicated to my trip to Scotland: Paris – Scotland by train: great comfort with Eurostar and Caledonian Sleeper
Once there, I chose to discover two iconic places: the Isle of Skye, famous for its grandiose landscapes, and Edinburgh, a charming historical capital full of activities. I connected the two by train, an excellent way to enjoy the splendors of the Highlands. This is the subject of the second article: The Isle of Skye, a train through the heart of the Highlands and Edinburgh: the best of Scotland
For the return to Paris, I opted for a train + ferry combination, via Newcastle and Amsterdam. An unusual itinerary that almost gave me the feeling of going on a cruise. This is the third and final article in this series that I tell in four parts:
- From Edinburgh to Newcastle by train with LNER of excellent reputation
- Newcastle Upon Tyne: the city of bridges
- Overnight ferry crossing from Newcastle to Amsterdam
- Amsterdam to Paris by Eurostar: With a Hint of Thalys Style
At the end of this article, I also give you practical advice and links to organize your trip.
From Edinburgh to Newcastle by Train with LNER of Excellent Reputation
I’m at the end of my Scottish journey, and it’s time to return home. This trip has left me with many images and sensations that I will preciously keep. For the return, I could have done as I did on the way there: take the Caledonian Sleeper night train from Edinburgh to London, then the Eurostar to Paris.
However, I discovered that there was a ferry between Newcastle and Amsterdam that was very well rated by passengers, so I wanted to try a different route.
This return will consist of three stages: first, a train journey from Edinburgh to Newcastle with LNER. Then, an overnight sea crossing to Amsterdam. Finally, I’ll take the Eurostar to return to Paris.
I leave my host late in the morning to reach the surprising Edinburgh Waverley station in the heart of the city and start my return journey.
The Surprising Edinburgh Waverley Station
Where the station now stands, there was once a lake: the Nor’ Loch! It was drained in the 18th century to make a large park, as over time, it had become an unhealthy swamp. In this valley, Waverley station was built in the 19th century, despite the reluctance of many residents who wanted to keep only a green space. This explains why, surprisingly, Edinburgh Waverley station is at the bottom of a narrow valley, below the rest of the city.
I take a last look at the castle overlooking the city before going down to my platform. Just above the station is the famous Balmoral Hotel, built at a time when railway companies were constructing veritable palaces to welcome their most privileged clients. As an anecdote, the hotel’s clock tower is two minutes fast, so travelers do not miss their train!
The large metal and glass roof impresses with its size, especially when observed from above, which is rather unusual for a station.
Edinburgh 12:00 PM Newcastle 1:27 PM by Train with LNER
I’m traveling with LNER (London North Eastern Railways), which has the reputation of being one of the railway companies offering the best services in the United Kingdom. By the way, I really like the trains’ livery, which is all white highlighted with a nice red and burgundy band.
I bought a First Class ticket, as I was able to get a good price for my train, which departs at a time of low traffic. I first go to the lounge. It’s small, but welcoming, with a limited offer of free non-alcoholic drinks and snacks.
A Very Elegant Train
But it’s time to board. The interiors of the carriages are also elegant, with a predominance of burgundy in First Class. Everything seems new, and the seats are comfortable.
However, I advise avoiding face-to-face seats, which leave little legroom. The seats in second class are a beautiful bright red, but they are steadfast, and the comfort is average.
A chef comes to serve us a light meal, which is included in the ticket, with a choice of five cold or hot dishes! No starter and just a mini-dessert. Given the price paid and the duration of the journey, I find this an exceptional service.
In Second class, a hostess or steward passes with a trolley to offer paid catering.
The only downside is that LNER doesn’t have a bar car. It would be nice to be able to stretch your legs during a journey that still takes almost 4 hours and 30 minutes from Edinburgh to London, which is the final destination.
Magnificent Landscapes along the Coast
The route between Edinburgh and Newcastle is quite pleasant, as for a good part of the journey, we follow the North Sea, with superb panoramas of cliffs and beaches. This railway line is considered one of the most picturesque in the United Kingdom.
I catch sight of Ayton Castle, which proudly overlooks the surrounding countryside. This large neo-Gothic mansion, built in the mid-19th century, is not a medieval castle per se, but its romantic appearance contributes to the charm of the landscape.
We Leave Scotland for England
Shortly after, just before the small town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, we leave Scotland. Berwick has a tumultuous history: it changed hands no less than thirteen times between England and Scotland before being definitively attached to England in 1482. Even today, some Scots symbolically claim it!
Once in England, impeccably manicured golf courses confirm that we are indeed south of Hadrian’s Wall!
The train then passes near Alnmouth, a charming little seaside resort with its colorful houses and picturesque estuary. It was once a prosperous port until a storm in 1806 diverted the course of the River Aln, rendering the old port unusable. Today, Alnmouth appeals to lovers of tranquility, nature, and coastal walks.
After a short journey of about an hour and a half, here I am in Newcastle upon Tyne, located nearly 200 km south of Edinburgh.
Newcastle upon Tyne: the City of Bridges
I have about two hours ahead of me to explore this city with a rich industrial and commercial past while waiting to catch my ferry.
The Castle from which the City Gets its Name
I start with Newcastle Castle, from which the city takes its name. Wedged between modern railway tracks, it’s not very impressive from the outside, but it has a fascinating history. Built in the 12th century by the Normans, this “New Castle” replaced an old Roman fortification. The castle keep, which has survived, still dominates the River Tyne below.
Along the River Tyne
I then descend towards the river, heading to Quayside, a pleasant promenade along the quays. It’s the right place where I can observe the series of iconic bridges spanning the Tyne.
First, the High Level Bridge, inaugurated in 1849 and designed by engineer Robert Stephenson, is a two-level bridge: the upper level for trains, and the lower level for pedestrians and cars. Its wrought iron style and imposing arches make it quite photogenic.
The Swing Bridge is next to it, a red and white pivoting bridge built in 1876. It was designed to allow ships to access upstream shipyards and docks. During the Victorian era, Newcastle’s port was one of the busiest in the country.
Then, a little further on, stands the spectacular Tyne Bridge, built in 1928, whose large dark green steel arch inevitably reminds one of Sydney’s Harbour Bridge (which was, in fact, designed by the same British company, Dorman Long).
An Elegant Neoclassical City Center
I head back up to the city center, not without being surprised by the bold integration of the bridge access roads into the urban fabric, winding between buildings.
After a short detour to St. Nicholas Cathedral, recognizable by its Gothic lantern spire, I walk along the harmonious Grey Street, considered one of the most beautiful streets in the United Kingdom. It is lined with 19th-century neoclassical buildings, constructed by architect Richard Grainger during the city’s redevelopment, giving birth to what is now called Grainger Town.
At the end of the avenue, I arrive at Grey’s Monument Square, the main square of Newcastle, the heart of the pedestrian shopping area. The monument erected in the center pays tribute to Charles Grey, 2nd Earl Grey, former British Prime Minister, reformer of the electoral system in 1832… but mostly famous for giving his name to Earl Grey tea, flavored with bergamot!
Newcastle upon Tyne: “Interesting” According to the Michelin Guide Classification
Without being spectacular, I enjoyed this short discovery of Newcastle. It gave me the impression of a pleasant city to live in, balancing heritage, culture, and urban life.
Overnight Ferry Crossing from Newcastle to Amsterdam
It’s 3:30 PM, and it’s already time for me to catch the shuttle to the port, which is about twenty kilometers from the central station.
As expected in England, the shuttle is a double-decker bus. I managed to get a seat on the upper deck, in the front row. There is nothing better than enjoying the panorama!
North Shields 5 PM, IJmuiden 10 AM the Next Day Aboard the Princess Seaways
The Danish ferry company DFDS, which operates the line between Great Britain and the Netherlands, presents it as connecting Newcastle to Amsterdam.
In reality, this is not quite accurate: the ferry runs between North Shields, 20 km east of Newcastle, and IJmuiden, 30 km west of Amsterdam. However, DFDS has organized a good shuttle system between these two ports and the city centers.
Departure from Newcastle Port, at North Shields, at the Mouth of the Tyne
After getting off the bus, I proceed to check-in, then quickly pass through police formalities before boarding the Princess Seaways ferry, which will take me to the Netherlands for the penultimate stage of my return journey.
DFDS aims to make this crossing a mini-cruise, to attract tourists who want to experience a sea journey for just two nights on board and a quick excursion to Newcastle or Amsterdam, depending on the starting point.
The atmosphere on board is therefore very relaxed and friendly, carried by a majority of Dutch and British tourists, often in small groups of friends or families. I really feel like I’m on holiday, far from a simple maritime transport journey.
It’s 4:15 PM when I discover my cabin. And — oh surprise — I feel the boat starting to move, even though the departure is officially scheduled for 5 PM! I rush to the outer decks not to miss anything of the departure.
The captain would later announce that he had decided to anticipate the departure, as all passengers were already on board. This is somewhat unexpected.
The port of North Shields is located quite upstream on the River Tyne, and it takes us a good while before reaching the open sea. The sun is out, and I’m lucky to enjoy beautiful panoramas of traditional fishing ports, fine sand beaches, and coastal villages. The descent of the Tyne is truly majestic, one of the journey’s highlights, which I fully appreciate.
Traveling in a Commodore Cabin: Comfort Worthy of a Cruise Ship
I had initially planned to travel in a standard double cabin, but these are really cramped. The bed occupies almost all the space, and the shower is placed directly above the toilet. After use, the toilet is soaked, which is unpleasant.
When boarding, I was lucky to benefit from an upgrade offer. Bingo! For an additional €95, I could move to the Commodore class, which completely changed the travel experience.
The cabin is twice as spacious, with a lounge area equipped with a sofa, which allows two people to settle in comfortably with their luggage. The bed is wider and easy to access, and the numerous storage spaces are well-designed for travelers.
The bathroom is well-designed, with a shower separate from the toilet, which significantly improves comfort.
Finally, the elegant decor gives the impression of being aboard a real cruise ship rather than a simple ferry. Enough to transform a night crossing into a moment of relaxation and pleasure.
The upgrade also includes several appreciable advantages: minibar drinks are complimentary, Wi-Fi is free, and breakfast is included.
It’s Hard to get Bored on Board the Princess Seaways !
The Princess Seaways is no longer very young: it was built in 1986. Its exterior design is not very elegant, with a massive and not very aerodynamic front facade. However, the interior has been carefully renovated and, for a ferry, it is relatively modern and pleasant to live in.
As on many ferries in Europe, duty-free shops play an essential role. Everyone goes for their alcohol purchases within the authorized customs limits. Curiously, the section dedicated to fashion and clothing is also well developed, with many promotions highlighted. English and Dutch indulge in a shopping session as lively as during sales in the city!
The second activity on a ferry is of course eating — and on the Princess Seaways, it’s a pleasant surprise. We have the choice between an à la carte restaurant and a generous buffet. I opted for the latter, and I didn’t regret it: the various buffets offer a wide variety of quality dishes, and the crowd is well managed throughout the evening thanks to a reservation slot system.
I chat for a while with my Ukrainian waiter, who explains that he works on board for four months in a row before enjoying a month of leave that he spends in Poland, not having the possibility of returning to Ukraine, which is at war. It was an emotional exchange.
The third activity — and perhaps the most popular, especially on a ferry between the UK and the Netherlands — is to have a drink in good company! As long as it’s daylight, passengers gather on the upper deck at the Sky Bar to enjoy the view and the relaxed atmosphere.
Later in the evening, the Columbus Club, located on deck 8, takes over with a quality musical group. The atmosphere is friendly, and it’s clear that many groups of friends have embarked together to enjoy this mini-cruise.
Some passengers choose to go to the cinema or the games room, but this remains a tiny minority. As is often the case on ferries, companies reserve a specific lounge for truck drivers, who are particularly pampered.
My personal preference, however, remains going to the outdoor decks and spending time contemplating the sea and sky. I never tire of it. That evening, the sunset is simply magnificent.
Arrival in Ijmuiden in the Netherlands: an Industrial Port Landscape
I wake up after a peaceful night, thanks to a remarkably calm sea and my particularly comfortable bed.
I start with a short morning walk to get some fresh air on the deck.
Commodore class passengers are invited to a small private dining room to have their breakfast, in complete privacy, included in the ticket price.
As we approach the port, the sun gradually hides under a sea mist. My gaze is drawn to a ship with an unusual silhouette: a giant roll-on/roll-off ship specialized in vehicle transport. This floating behemoth, of recent design, is optimized for propulsion with methanol or ammonia, aiming to reduce CO₂ emissions drastically. The Höeg Australis I see passing by can carry up to 9,100 vehicles!
IJmuiden is undoubtedly not the most attractive gateway to the Netherlands. A port city founded in the 19th century at the mouth of the North Sea Canal, it developed around its industrial port, fishing, and the Tata Steel blast furnaces, which are still in operation. But seen from the ship, this landscape of silos, cranes, and chimneys has a certain aesthetic power.
The Princess Seaways then engages in an impressive maneuver: a long reverse into a narrow dock, perfectly mastered by the crew. I’m impressed by the captain’s precision.
After a rather long passage through immigration — the ferry is full that morning —, I board the shuttle provided by DFDS, which takes me in about thirty minutes to Amsterdam Central Station, along the residential areas of the western suburbs.
Amsterdam to Paris by Eurostar: With a Hint of Thalys Style !
Amsterdam is a city I know very well: I lived there for five years. I’ve dedicated a series of articles where I share my tips to discover it at its best:
- Advice for a friend going to Amsterdam for a long weekend
- Discover Amsterdam on foot: my favorite places
- Three original bike tours around Amsterdam
This time, I’m only making a short stop before returning home to Paris since the DFDS shuttle drops me off at the central station at 11 am and my train to Paris is scheduled for 5:10 pm. The view of the IJ as I exit the station is still as attractive as ever.
One of the great pleasures of returning to a familiar city is not needing a guide, immediately finding your bearings, and feeling at home.
I walk through my old neighborhood, along the canals, to relive the good memories, the happy moments spent here. A few hours are enough to reconnect and to feel this unique atmosphere that makes Amsterdam so charming again.
Amsterdam 5:10 Pm Paris 8:35 Pm with Eurostar
When I lived in Amsterdam, I was a frequent traveler on the Amsterdam-Paris line, which I took more than a hundred times. In fact, in 2022, I wrote about how this journey goes in a dedicated article: “Traveling by Eurostar in the footsteps of the Étoile du Nord“.
When I lived in the Netherlands, Thalys operated the high-speed trains between Benelux and France, while Eurostar operated the connections between continental Europe and London. In 2022, the two companies merged to keep only the Eurostar brand.
This time, it’s the first time I’m traveling from Amsterdam to Paris with Eurostar and not Thalys anymore. So I was curious to see what had changed!
In 2021, I was invited to the presentation of the renovated Thalys trains, which I describe in this article: “Ruby: a new interior design for Thalys” (In French only). However, great disappointment: four years later, the transition is still not complete, and I find myself in an old train that is very familiar to me.
Return in Eurostar Premier
I’m traveling in “Eurostar Premier” class, as I did on my outbound journey between Paris and London. The main advantage is that I can benefit from a meal and unlimited drinks, including champagne—a novelty—as well as wines. The service is offered to me at 5:30 p.m., just after departing from Schiphol. It’s a perfect time for Dutch clientele, but much too early for a Frenchman! However, the hostess informs me that another meal will be served after Brussels, which suits me better.
But surprise! After Brussels, the steward who replaced the hostess informs me that the meals are reserved for passengers who boarded in Brussels. Fortunately, he has an extra tray left so that I can enjoy my dinner. Still, Eurostar would benefit from better informing its customers about the catering offer available to them in advance. When I traveled with Thalys, I received two separate services: a snack and a meal, on the two legs of Amsterdam-Brussels and Brussels-Paris.
Otherwise, the journey is pleasant. Even if the train is starting to show its age, I happily rediscover the comfortable seat and the soothing red and burgundy atmosphere that I appreciated at the time.
Still Faithful to the Thalys Heritage!
In the end, little has changed with Thalys’s transformation into Eurostar, which rather satisfies me. My 2022 article, therefore, remains relevant for a more detailed version of what an Amsterdam—Paris journey looks like.
I arrive on time at Paris Gare du Nord to conclude this beautiful, out-of-the-ordinary trip to Scotland, thanks to the train and ferry.
From Edinburgh to Paris with the Best of Maritime and Rail Transport
I derived much satisfaction from this original return from Edinburgh to Paris. The two railway companies used — LNER between Edinburgh and Newcastle, and Eurostar between Amsterdam and Paris — both offer high-quality service.
The ferry crossing between Newcastle and IJmuiden, with its cruise-like atmosphere, is a real plus during this journey.
Indeed, the price paid is higher than a round trip by plane, but, as on the outbound journey during my Paris — London — Fort William trip, I transformed my journey, both outbound and return, into moments of pleasure and discovery, with varied and magnificent landscapes seen from my train window or from the deck of my boat.
It’s no longer just transportation, but a true travel experience that I lived!
Practical Advice for your Train and Ferry Journey between France and Scotland
Reference sites
There are two reference sites for organizing your own trip:
- Seat61: Mark Smith has created a website that is THE rail transport bible.
- Discoverferries: Thissite brings together the offers of 13 ferry operators in the British Isles.
Tourist offices
The websites of Scottish tourist offices are quite comprehensive and interesting:
- Visitscotland.com
- isleofskye.com (unofficial site)
- edinburgh.org
I invite you to visit them before you leave.
The weather!
Checking the weather in Scotland is essential! The oceanic climate is very changeable and you need to know how to adapt. The most reliable site is that of the official meteorological services. It is very comprehensive.
Accommodation
Finding accommodation in Scotland can be complicated as the supply is undersized compared to the demand. You must book well in advance, especially in touristy places like the Isle of Skye.
Renting a Car on the Isle of Skye
Renting a car to visit the Isle of Skye will be very useful. Three rental companies are present on the island.
Morrison car hire: located in Portree. It is possible to pick up or return your car in Armadale or Kyle of Lochalsh for an additional fee of 100 GBP.
Drive Skye: located in Armadale. It is not possible to pick up or return your car elsewhere on the island.
Car hire skye: located in Kyle of Lochalsh, but, for an additional 60 GBP, it is possible to pick up or drop off your car in Armadale.
Transport Budget (in 2025)
All companies practice dynamic pricing according to demand. To optimize your budget, book well in advance and avoid peak periods.
If you are over 60, buying a senior card (35 GBP for one year) is advisable, as it allows you to obtain significant discounts on all British rail companies.
Traveling as a pair on a night train or ferry can significantly reduce prices by sharing a cabin.
On the way from Paris to Fort William:
Eurostar train from Paris to London in Eurostar Premier class: 375 EUR. The alternative is to travel in Eurostar Plus class, which offers the same comfort but without the fast-track and lounge access at the station and a lighter meal, with prices starting at 110 EUR
Caledonian Sleeper night train from London to Fort William in Club En-suite class: between 280 GBP to 340 GBP. The alternative is to travel in Classic class with prices starting at 205 GBP. These prices are valid for one person traveling alone. They are more attractive for two people sharing their cabin.
In Scotland :
Scotrail train from Kyle Of Lochalsh to Edinburgh in second class 87 GBP
On the return from Edinburgh to Paris :
LNER train from Edinburgh to Newcastle in 1st class: between 45 GBP and 97 GBP
DFDS ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam: between 140 EUR and 400 EUR in a double-bed cabin. The Commodore class costs between 360 and 580 EUR. The price is per cabin, not per passenger.
Eurostar train from Amsterdam to Paris in Standard Premium: between 159 EUR and 229 EUR. In Standard Plus prices vary between 75 EUR and 179 EUR
Book trains and ferries
Where to book trains and ferries?
- Eurostar: eurostar.com
- Caledonian Sleeper: sleeper.scot
- Scotrail: scotrail.co.uk
- LNER: lner.co.uk
- DFDS: dfds.com
Turas math!
Bon voyage!
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