Getting to Puglia by train from Paris

My train journey from Paris to Lecce in Italy’s Puglia region

Puglia is one of Italy’s regions that has recently exploded in popularity with French travelers. I discovered them on my first trip in 2018 and was keen to return. With its charming white-washed villages, little-known Bari, and architectural gem Lecce, Puglia has plenty to offer. And let’s not forget their delicious cuisine!

Of course, it’s easy to get there in just over two hours by low-cost flight from France. But I wanted to try a different, more enjoyable, and immersive approach that would allow me to take a night train, which I consider the essence of travel!

So here’s the story of my journey, hoping that it will convince you that this alternative to flying is a real bargain.

At first glance, the 26-hour journey might seem daunting. But the very heart of this experience is to transform this time into moments of life, discovery, and pleasure.

My itinerary will take place in three main stages via Zurich and Milan.

I’ll start with an early departure from Paris to reach Zurich in four hours. After a one-hour connection, I’ll continue to Milan, crossing the Alps and admiring the breathtaking scenery. I’ll arrive in Milan in the late afternoon and won’t leave until the evening, giving me plenty of time for a stroll, dinner, and even a dip in the pool! Finally, the last leg of my journey will be a long night in a sleeper car, allowing me to arrive rested at my final destination: Lecce.

Paris’s elegant Gare de Lyon

With my train scheduled for 7.22 a.m., I get up at dawn for my long journey to Lecce.

Gare de Lyon was built just in time for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. It is easily recognized by its elegant 62-meter-high clock tower, designed by Garnier, the architect of the Opera House in Paris that bears his name.

A complex but elegant station

Today, it’s one of the biggest and most complicated in Paris.

I arrive from my home by metro via the least attractive part, located in the basement. Numerous metro lines, commuter trains, and the RER (Regional Express Trains) are in a frightening complexity of mazes of corridors and halls on several levels. The regulars thread their way along their well-marked itinerary, known only to themselves. Provincials and foreigners disembarking from their TGV try to figure out, amid a compact crowd, how to buy their ticket and then make their way to their final destination.

Somewhat by chance, I arrive in hall 2, with its bright, modern glass roof, a symbol of the 21st century, from which most of the southeast of France’s TGV high-speed trains depart. The notice board tells me that my train to Zurich departs from hall 1, which I reach by passing through the magnificently renovated fresco hall. I’ve known it to be dark, with counters where endless queues formed to buy a train ticket from an employee hidden behind his protective screen!

Today, it houses several luxury boutiques, the SNCF, the French Railways company, a sales area, and a VIP lounge for frequent travelers. My gaze is drawn to the superb long-painted fresco depicting the various destinations of the former prestigious PLM (Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée) company.

Le Train Bleu’s Michelin-starred restaurant

At the end of the fresco hall, I find myself in the immense Hall 1 with its original glass roof. On the street-side façade, I see a grand double staircase leading up to the Train Bleu restaurant. At this early hour, it’s still closed, but through the glass door, I can admire the splendid 1900s decor. It’s easy for me to imagine when a chic clientele would dine here before returning to their luxurious sleeper cars bound for Nice, Rome, or Venice.

But it’s time to catch my TGV to Zurich.

On the TGV Lyria to Zurich

My TGV sports a beautiful white, grey, and red livery. Lyria is a joint venture between the French railways, SNCF, and the Swiss railroads, CFF. I like the name with a nice ring as much as I liked the now-defunct Thalys brand.

I travel in Standard First class

I’m traveling in Standard First Class, on the top floor of the duplex train. I’m not disoriented, as the seats and harmony are very similar to those of the SNCF’s domestic TGVs. Comfort and personal space are very satisfactory.

Our TGV was full that day. It was the day after the closing ceremony of the Paris Olympic Games, and many Swiss fans were returning home.

As on the Eurostar (formerly Thalys), I could have chosen to travel in Business First class. I would have enjoyed a breakfast that, from the advertising photos, looks appetizing. But I would have had to pay an extra hundred euros for a seat with identical comfort. Breakfast is a bit expensive! Instead, I decided to bring some pastries from my favorite bakery near home and head to the bar in the middle of the train for an espresso.

I also take a look at the Standard class, which is also very complete.

Our TGV runs on the Paris-Lyon high-speed line, which we leave just before reaching Dijon. The route to Zurich alternates between high-speed and conventional sections, which explains why it takes us 4 hours, compared with 2 hours 40 minutes to Avignon, a similar distance from Paris.

An hour and a half after our departure, we arrive in Dijon, which we’re just passing through. Until the early 80s, it was a strategic station between Paris and Lyon, but with the new TGV line passing a bit further west on a more direct route, it has lost this role. The ten platforms seem disproportionate to current traffic levels.

After Dijon, we pick up speed again to Belfort, on the second high-speed line of our route, across a vast, rather monotonous plain. It’s only between Belfort and Mulhouse that the landscape becomes more interesting, with the Vosges mountains in the distance.

Worry-free border crossing

Although Switzerland is not part of the European Union, it has joined the Schengen area, so we cross the border before Basel without realizing it. This is one of the great benefits of European integration that we tend to forget. When I worked on night trains in the 80s, border controls were systematic and time-consuming.

At low speed, but ideally, on time, we reach Zurich. As the Lyria website proudly proclaims, it’s the high speed of French railroads combined with the punctuality of Swiss railroads. The best of two prestigious companies!

An hour to breathe the air of Zurich’s Old Town!

My connection between the two trains takes just over an hour. That’s enough time for a short stroll through the old town to Lake Zurich.

The old town, with its car-free cobbled streets, is charming. I’m surprised by the profusion of Swiss flags, which I find excessive! Although Zurich is more of a business destination, I’m struck by the many tourists wandering around.

A floating pool for women only!

I walk along the Limmat River. It rises in Lake Zurich and joins the Aare, which flows into the Rhine. Traveling also means being curious about geography! I pass the Frauenbad Stadthausquai, a floating wooden swimming pool built at the end of the 19th century. It’s very hot and I’m tempted to stop for a quick dip… but the entrance is reserved for women only! This singularity is explained by the fact that women in the 19th century had nowhere in Zurich to bathe in peace and quiet.

My hour’s walk passes quickly, and it’s time to head back to the station.

Zürich Hauptbahnhof railway station

Zurich’s main railway station, built in a neo-Renaissance style in 1871, is remarkably well located in the heart of the city, at the end of the aptly named Bahnhofstrasse, the main shopping street with its many luxury boutiques.

The station is entered through a monumental, recently renovated hall. The centerpiece is Niki de Saint Phalle’s sculpture, “The Guardian Angel”.

The station is also home to a large shopping center, Shopville, located in the basement, with 180 stores of all kinds. This is the only place in Zurich where you can shop in the evenings, on Sundays and public holidays, as the city’s other shops are subject to strict opening hours.

With my train at the platform, I join it immediately.

Zurich-Milan with Trenitalia via the old Gotthard tunnel

The Swiss (CFF) and Italian (Trenitalia) railroads jointly operate the Zurich-Milan line. There’s almost one train an hour!

The Gotthard Base Tunnel: a technological feat

Since 2016, the journey between these two cities has taken just 3 hours and 17 minutes, thanks to the inauguration of the superlative Gotthard Base Tunnel. At 57 km, it is the longest tunnel in the world, surpassing the Channel Tunnel, which measures “only” 50 km. It is also the deepest, passing beneath a 2450 m layer of granite at the summit of Piz Vatgira. Trains pass through the tunnel in less than 20 minutes at a maximum speed of 250 km/h. The project cost 12 billion Swiss francs and took 20 years to complete!

However, in August 2024, I can’t use this tunnel, as it’s closed to passenger traffic following the derailment of a freight train that severely damaged it a year earlier. My train will, therefore, have to use the old Gotthard tunnel, which is much shorter and at a higher altitude. Only 15 km long, it rises to 1150 m, compared with 500 m for the new tunnel. My journey will take an hour longer, allowing me to admire exceptional landscapes no longer visible when traveling through the base tunnel.

On board the Italian tilting train

Most journeys are made by Giruno trains operated by Swiss Railways, but today, I’m traveling on an Italian train. It’s an ETR610 with tilting technology, which makes it possible to go faster on conventional tracks. The exterior livery, predominantly silver-gray with touches of red and green, is very elegant.

I continue my journey in First Class. My first impression is not very good. The cabin harmony, very gray, is rather sad. I’m not a fan of the leather seats, which are too hot in summer and too cold in winter. Finally, the floor is lino rather than carpet, which looks cheap.

I almost wish I’d bought a ticket in second class, whose seat with its pretty blue fabric seems more comfortable, though narrower.

Lake Zurich

Switzerland obliges, and our train leaves perfectly on time. After passing through a tunnel, we emerge along Lake Zurich. Lake Zurich is 42 km long but only 3 km wide and shaped like a banana. Around Zurich, the shores are highly urbanized, with pretty houses and small apartment blocks all offering superb views. The presence of water makes this one of Europe’s most pleasant cities regarding quality of life.

Lake Zug and the pretty town of Arth, then Lake Lucerne

After about 15 km, we turn south towards Lake Zug. It has a more rural feel, with beautiful lakeside residences.

Arriving at its southern end, we pass the small town of Arth, set in an exceptional landscape, with the Rigi mountain in the background. It’s the epitome of Switzerland!

That’s when I decide to go to the bistro car. I’m slightly disappointed, as it looks more like a run-of-the-mill cafeteria than a restaurant. My lunch is limited to a panini and an espresso. If I’d taken a Swiss train, I’d have had an authentic meal served at my seat. Too bad!

It’s siesta time. Some passengers let themselves be lulled to sleep by the train.

We then pass by Lake Lucerne. Magnificent!

The route to the old Gotthard tunnel is a feast for the eyes

At Erstfeld, we should have reached the Gotthard base tunnel, but we fork right to climb the mountain to the old tunnel. It’ll take us another hour, but it’s a feast for the eyes, with villages overlooked by mountains.

To reach the altitude of 1150 m, the railway makes several 360° loops; otherwise, the slope would be too steep.

After the tunnel, we head back down towards Lugano. We follow the freeway, which also has its own Gotthard tunnel. Traffic is bidirectional pending the construction of a second tube, scheduled for 2032. To limit the risk of accidents, the speed limit is 80 km/h, and the safety distance between vehicles is extended, causing huge traffic jams, as I can see from my window. Long live the train!

Lugano: Italian Switzerland

Lugano! If there’s a stopover to plan between Zurich and Milan, this is it. The lake, with its winding shape, offers exceptional scenery. We’re still in Switzerland, but in the Italian-speaking part, and the elegant architecture of the villas on the famous Italian lakes is to be found here. Lugano is Switzerland’s third-largest financial center after Zurich and Geneva and a popular tourist destination thanks to its mild climate. As I hadn’t planned any stops, I’ll have to make do with the views of this magnificent region from my train.

We cross the wine-growing region of Ticino, which is famous for its Merlot.

Italy and the Po plain

We reach the border town of Chiasso, where the Swiss team give way to their Italian counterparts. Then, we pass the city of Como.

We’re not far from Milan and leaving the Alps behind to head for the great Po Plain.

We arrive on schedule at 4.50 pm, after a 4.15-hour journey.

Am I keeping busy for five hours in Milan?

I have a five-hour connection before my night train to Lecce. After checking in my bag, I hop on one of the city’s self-service bicycles and head for the heart of Milan, around the Duomo.

Start with Italian gelato!

My first stop is at Grom, one of Milan’s most famous ice cream parlors. There’s a bit of a queue before you get served, but it’s worth it, incredibly, as the heat is stifling with over 35°C in the shade!

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and the Duomo: unique splendors

I then head to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to admire its splendid glass dome.

Then I enter Piazza del Duomo, home to Milan’s cathedral. In the late afternoon light, its white marble facade stands out magnificently.

I stroll through the many surrounding boutiques to take advantage of the cool air-conditioning and discover the latest fashion trends.

Why not go swimming?

It’s really hot, and I know I won’t be able to take a shower at the station or on my train. Luckily, I find a municipal swimming pool not far away: the Cozzi pool. Its 1930s architecture gives it a retro feel, and I’m delighted to dive into the cool pool! It’s historic because when it opened in 1934, it was Italy’s first fully indoor pool.

Finish with a good pizza!

Before catching my train, I settle down for a pizza in a local trattoria, one of the many around the station. The pleasure of simply eating well that’s what makes Italy so charming!

Milan’s Mussolini-style Central Station

The station was inaugurated in 1931 when Mussolini was in power. The station had to be monumental to celebrate the greatness of Fascist power.

Arriving earlier from Zurich, I was impressed by the Central Station’s surroundings and its multitude of tracks. The building known as “Cabina A”, formerly used to manage the points, is still imposing!

The station’s 24 platforms are covered not by a single glass roof but by five! I’m particularly impressed by the remarkable wrought-iron structures.

A grandiloquent style

Next, I enter the station itself. Its style is indefinable, a mix of Art Deco influences and reminiscences of ancient Rome. It reminds me of the Baths of Caracalla! In any case, despite the crowds, you feel tiny under the 70-metre-high ceiling. It’s a pity that the numerous advertising hoardings spoil the architecture, which is exceptional in its gigantism.

A Shoah memorial

Right next to the station is a well-hidden Holocaust memorial, Platform 21, in the basement. This is where Jews left on freight trains for the German concentration camps.

It’s now evening after my little Milanese escapade. I return to the station. At night, the exterior façade is just as impressive, but more for its size than its elegance.

Milan-Lecce with Trenitalia’s Intercity Notte

The Italian railroad Trenitalia has maintained an extensive network of night trains, with several routes from northern Italy to Sicily and Puglia. These trains are marketed under the Intercity Notte brand.

When our train arrives at Platform 16 just five minutes before its scheduled departure at 9:50 p.m., a vast crowd rushes to Platform 16. My fellow passengers are primarily young people or families. It’s midsummer, and I expect our train to be packed.

I’m traveling in Sleeping car: The “Deluxe” Class

I’m traveling in “Deluxe” class, the denomination for sleeper comfort. My car seems a long time ago, strangely reminiscent of the ones I used to work in back in the ’80s – that’s forty years ago!

The compartments can accommodate one to three people, but they must travel together. In other words, being alone, I had to buy a single cabin and not just a bed in a cabin to share with one or two strangers, as was once possible.

The decor in my cabin is rather cold, reminiscent of a hospital. It’s a pity that, as on my Zurich-Milan journey, Trenitalia hasn’t made more of an effort to give its trains a warmer atmosphere. On the floor, I find lino rather than carpet, which would be more pleasant.

The cabin is equipped with a washbasin, but the toilet is at the end of a sinister corridor, which is neither practical nor pleasant in the middle of the night.

Fortunately, I took a shower before boarding, as there are none on the train, unlike the Austrian railroads’ Nightjets, which I’ve already ridden, as described in my articles on the Paris-Vienna and Hamburg-Innsbruck journey.

Polaris Elior provides the service, and a steward is assigned to my car. Shortly after settling in, he comes to offer me a very basic comfort box and a questionnaire for choosing my breakfast. He shows me a call button but makes it clear that it’s for emergencies only. I wouldn’t want to disturb his sleep over trivial matters!

Travel in “Comfort“or “Basic” classes

Before departure, I take the time to explore the two other classes offered by Trenitalia.

First, there is the Comfort class, which offers four-berth compartments. These cars are more recent than those in the “Deluxe” class and seem to offer a good compromise between comfort and price.

Next, I discover the “Basic” class, aptly named: comfort is really minimal! Passengers are seated in sets of four, facing each other in pairs. Although the seats appear soft, their recline is slight, and you have to deal with your neighbor’s legs. Spending a night in these conditions can’t be very restful.

We leave over 40 minutes late, for some unknown reason. But that’s the magic of night trains: despite everything, we’ll be on time the following day in Puglia.

After a long day’s travel from Paris, I fall asleep like a baby. The train is well-soundproofed, the bedding is comfortable, and the air-conditioning works perfectly. My night is excellent.

Waking up in Puglia

I wake up gently in the early morning. It is 7:44 am, and we have just left Bari. Before reaching our final destination, Lecce, we will make several stops in towns of the Puglia region, all worth visiting.

Bari: the Naples of Apulia

Bari is best known as the gateway for tourists flying to the beaches of Puglia. As I raise the curtain, I catch sight of a Transavia plane on approach.

Yet Bari deserves a visit in its own right for its historic center and charming winding streets. Its port atmosphere reminded me a little of Naples when I first visited it a few years ago.

For northern Europeans, the Basilica of St. Nicholas is a must-see. It houses the relics of St. Nicholas, the same saint who gives presents to good children every December.

My steward brings me my breakfast. It’s made up entirely of bagged industrial products with little flavor, but fortunately, the cappuccino is excellent. The Italian sleeper cars are equipped with a real espresso machine.

We pass vast fields of olive trees stretching as far as the eye can see. The train speeds along a perfectly straight track, typical of the Puglia region, which is as flat as the Netherlands.

Polignano a Mare and Monopoli

Half an hour after Bari, our next stop is Polignano a Mare, a charming seaside town with houses perched on cliffs. Its main beach lies at the bottom of a spectacular rocky cove, and numerous underwater caves are accessible by swimming or boat.

Ten minutes later, we stop at Monopoli, another seaside town with a pretty fishing port, very photogenic.

Alberobello and Ostuni

Our next stop is Fasano, near some of Puglia’s most famous villages. Alberobello is world-famous for its trulli, stone houses with conical roofs, reminiscent of a Smurf village! Equally charming are the towns of Locorotondo, Martina Franca and Cisternino, with their tiny white houses nestling among olive groves.

At 8.39 am, we arrive in Ostuni. Perched on a hill, this old town is one of the most remarkable in Puglia, offering magnificent views of the Adriatic coast. We’re now in Salento, the southern region of Puglia that forms the heel of the Italian boot.

Brindisi: the port to Greece

At 9:05 am, our last stop before Lecce is Brindisi. Less touristy, this town is, above all, a gateway to Puglia, with its airport and port offering numerous connections to Greece.

Between Brindisi and Lecce, I observe that the olive groves are in poorer condition. Many trees look dead, victims of the Xylella fastidiosa bacterium, which has been drying out olive trees since 2013, causing the death of over 21 million trees. This epidemic, which is difficult to control, is a significant concern for the region.

Reporterre in French and The Guardian in English detail this worrying situation.

Lecce: the Florence of the south

It’s 9.30 am., and we arrive at Lecce station right on time for our final destination! The little station is already drenched in sunshine, and it’s expected to be 38°C in the afternoon!

Lecce is a magnificent city, often referred to as the Florence of the South, thanks to its many Baroque churches and palaces. The town owes its charm to the Lecce stone, which gives it a golden hue. It shines as brightly in the sun as it does under the night lights. It’s a real pleasure to stroll around.

Paris-Lecce in 26 hours

It took me 26 hours to travel from Paris to Lecce, and I don’t regret it in the least!

A relaxing, stress-free trip

Thanks to a good night’s sleep in the sleeper car and my choice to travel First Class, I arrived in Lecce refreshed and ready to go despite the length of the journey.

I had planned sufficiently long connection times to avoid the stress of delays.

A fascinating trip from a tourist perspective

As my trip went so well, I could even enjoy some pleasant strolls in the center of Zurich and Milan.

I enjoyed discovering the stations on my route, all steeped in history and architecturally rich.

The mountain scenery between Zurich and Milan was absolutely stunning.

A regrettable lack of coordination between European railways

It’s a pity, however, that rail companies cooperate so little. Organizing this trip took me a long time, as each company has its own pricing rules. For example, for the Zurich-Milan journey, you can buy your ticket via Trenitalia or SBB, but the fare is cheaper with Trenitalia and you can choose your seat on a map and not with SBB

As with my train journey from Paris to Stockholm, it was unrealistic to rely on the rail companies to make organizing, booking, and buying the ticket easy. I had to manage on my own.

Discovering the superb Puglia region

Now, all that’s left for me to do is discover Puglia, an endearing region in Italy! I’ll write an article to tell you more about it.