Cruise Aboard Renaissance: From Naples to Marseille

Cruises ? Are not for me !

Traveling in Europe in November is not the ideal period. The good days are behind us, and winter is not yet here! Paradoxically, it’s also the time when we most want to leave, because Paris at this time is not at its best.

While researching online, my husband suggested, “How about a short Mediterranean cruise?” My response wasn’t very enthusiastic, as I had a poor image of cruises that have become an industry far removed from my concept of travel.

My image of cruises: enormous floating buildings!

Indeed, I had no desire to find myself on a ship like Icon of the Seas. These ships, unfortunately, are increasingly numerous and, in my opinion, simply monstrous. They resemble huge floating buildings, and on board, the travel experience is more akin to a stay in an amusement park or shopping mall than a discovery of the sea or port calls.

I know that many find what they’re looking for to relax during their holidays, but I think it’s more of a leisure activity than travel in the sense of exploring the world.

Luxury cruises: an appealing alternative, but expensive

On the other hand, several companies, such as Ponant or Star Clipper, offer magnificent luxury cruises. The ships are often superb, and the small number of passengers on board lends an intimate, yet elitist, character to the journey. You also need to be ready to spend several thousand euros per person per week to access this level of service.

Traveling differently: ferries

That’s why I’ve always been more attracted to traveling on ferries. I like their utilitarian aspect of connecting island peoples with a continent or other islands. As recently as last spring, I greatly enjoyed my ferry and train journey to Ireland, which I recounted in several articles, from Paris to Dublin.

A discovery: the French Cruise Company

But, while surfing the Internet, my husband came across a new company that piqued his curiosity: La Compagnie Française de Croisières (CFC).

A cruise aboard Renaissance that made me want to try !

CFC is a relatively young company, having been operational for barely a year, and it owns only one ship: Renaissance, formerly Maasdam, a vessel from the Holland America Line company, built in 1991.

CFC’s website promises “old-fashioned” cruises, more oriented towards culture, gastronomy, conviviality, and discovery of destinations. Originality: They have chosen to target only a French-speaking clientele. Their price positioning is intended to be premium, slightly more expensive than Costa or MSC offers, but much more affordable than those of Ponant or Silversea.

A cruise from Naples to Marseille, the two Mediterranean cousins

Another peculiarity that changed my mind: on a Mediterranean cruise looping from Marseille, CFC offered the possibility, as an exception, to embark at a mid-journey port call in Naples. I was drawn to the idea of traveling from Naples to Marseille, two cities that share so much in common.

Between the two, Renaissance offered us the opportunity to discover port cities we didn’t know: Messina, Palermo, and Ajaccio.

Our Cruise Itinerary

• Day 1: Naples
• Day 2: Around Stromboli
• Day 3: Messina
• Day 4: Palermo
• Day 5: At Sea
• Day 6: Ajaccio
• Day 7: Marseille

An Unbeatable Price

Finally, the decisive argument: the price! €1,184 for two, full board for 7 days, for a cabin with a sea view. A promotional rate available during the least popular period of the year in Europe, outside school holidays.

So I changed my mind and agreed to try a cruise!

Naples at the Foot of Vesuvius

We had initially planned to travel to Naples by train, but due to various practical and economic reasons, we decided to fly instead. Before our cruise, we spent three days in Naples, a city of immense charm. It’s one of those places where I’d love to stay for several weeks to appreciate its atmosphere truly.

I plan to write a more in-depth article about Naples later.

Day 1: Discovering Renaissance and Departing from Naples

Finally, the day of our departure! We head towards the cruise terminal ‘Stazione Marittima’, located in the city center, which we can reach on foot from our hotel in the Spanish Quarter.

It’s an imposing building constructed in the 1930s, originally designed to accommodate transatlantic ships or those bound for former Italian colonies. This explains why the main hall is oversized for today’s traffic.

Being few to embark from Naples, we find ourselves on board as easily as on a private yacht!

First Discovery of Renaissance Cruise Ship

Upon discovering Renaissance, we are first struck by the elegance of its design. With its black hull and red funnel, it resembles a miniature of the famous vessel France. The exterior decks are all covered with beautiful teak flooring, adding a touch of luxury.

We pass through a double security filter, in the terminal and then on board the ship. Our first impression is good. The interior decoration is relatively understated and tasteful, with quality materials. The floors are entirely covered with carpet or tiles. It’s very pleasant not to see low-quality linoleum, which is increasingly found in public transport, whether on ferries or trains.

The receptionist at the desk is courteous. We are given a name badge that serves as both a key to access our cabin and a pass to disembark and embark from the ship at stops.

Our Cabin with a Window

We discover our cabin on the 5th deck. It’s located in the middle of the ship: the best location! This is where the swell is least felt, the engines are far away, and there’s no disco above our cabin!

The cabin is of a reasonable size, approximately 16 m², and cozy, featuring a carpet and discreet colors in shades of beige, with some touches of burgundy. There are numerous storage spaces, and we quickly take possession of the place.

There is an identical interior cabin in terms of layout, but it lacks a porthole. It was a bit cheaper, but we wanted to have an exterior view to be able to observe the sea, even at night. Waking up during sleep and being able to look at the sea for a few moments is an invaluable pleasure. It makes you dream, and you fall back asleep immediately!

An Offer of More Luxurious Cabins

CFC offers a slightly larger cabin with a private balcony or one opening onto the promenade deck, but at this time of year, late November, we judged that we would enjoy the balcony very little!

Finally, the high-end category consists of cabins nearly twice as spacious, called ‘Renaissance suites’, although the living and sleeping areas are not really separated. During the trip, we were able to visit one. Their comfort level is significantly higher than that of the cabins. Still, they are primarily of interest to passengers who want to spend extended periods in their privacy without utilizing the shared spaces. This was not our case!

The ‘ultimate luxury’ is the large Renaissance suite of 87 m². It features a private living room and dining room, as well as its own telescope.

Our First Dinner at the Vatel Restaurant

This is the moment we’ve been eagerly awaiting, as Renaissance‘s gastronomy is already renowned!

On the first evening, we head to the Vatel restaurant.

The maître d’hôtel greets us. This is undoubtedly the role that requires the most diplomatic skills on board the ship! Indeed, everyone arrives with their wishes: to be at a specific type of table, with certain people, and especially not with others, etc.

We are lucky, as the maître d’hôtel seats us at a table for two near the window, which is usually reserved for suite guests. This allows us to enjoy the view of illuminated Naples at the time of departure, at 9 pm.

At the very least, we can say that the room is spectacular. It spans two levels with a large mezzanine. The decor is a bit ornate, featuring gilding, carpeting, and geometric patterns. However, overall, it gives a rather luxurious impression, despite being original.

We find a similar impression to that of large Parisian brasseries, like La Coupole. It’s a constant ballet of stylish and professional waiters. The tables are covered with white tablecloths, with porcelain dishes and silver cutlery, as it should be! The tradition of the liners of yesteryear is respected!

Our waiter, of Mauritian origin like most of his colleagues, brings us the menu, specifying that we can order anything we want. It is well-stocked and there’s something for everyone.

Wine is of course extra, but the prices are reasonable and comparable to restaurants of the same standard in France.

The cuisine is French-inspired, and the dishes are well-presented with generally efficient service.

Day 2: At Sea Towards Stromboli

The pleasure of a cruise is, above all, about sailing. That’s why we’re happy to have a day at sea, especially since we’re enjoying mild and sunny weather in this late November.

The distance from Naples to Stromboli is only about 300 km. Renaissance advances at a leisurely pace, at a speed of 6.8 knots, or just over 12 km/h! ‘Slow travel’ takes on its whole meaning, and we don’t mind at all.

Ideal Weather to Enjoy Renaissance’s Outdoor Relaxation Areas

After breakfast at the Vatel restaurant, we set off to explore the ship’s outdoor areas. We start with a sporty walk on the 6th deck. A vast promenade, covered with beautiful teak planking, goes around it. As the signs indicate, going around it four times covers a distance of 1.6 kilometers.

Then, we head to decks 12 and 13, with their wide spaces, to spend some time contemplating the sea. Nothing better to relax!

At noon, we decide to go to the Belle-Île buffet restaurant to prepare a light salad. We sit outside to enjoy the sun that we’ve missed so much in Paris throughout the autumn of 2024.

In the afternoon, it’s warm enough to make us want to put on our swimsuits and lie on the loungers on the aft deck by the pool for a nap. Encouraged by a few more daring swimmers, we also plunge in, with the pleasant surprise of discovering that the water is at a very agreeable temperature.

Navigation Around the Legendary Stromboli Volcano

Around 4 PM, the cruise director invites us to the bow of Renaissance, as we approach Stromboli. The island is formed by an active volcano that belongs to the Aeolian archipelago, located northeast of Sicily. We spot it with its plume of smoke blending into the clouds. We try to imagine its actual mass, as Stromboli’s base rests 2,000 meters underwater, while it only rises 926 meters above sea level.

Renaissance circles it slowly and majestically. We watch the sun gently descending towards the sea, in increasingly yellow and orange hues. It’s magnificent!

Like many of our fellow travelers, we remain on deck admiring this spectacle, where we have front-row seats. At nightfall, we are fortunate enough to witness one of the famous Strombolian explosions, characterized by the ejection of ash and lapilli several dozen meters high, in an incandescent red.

We also recall our childhood readings with Jules Verne’s novel, ‘Journey to the Center of the Earth,’ where the heroes return to the surface on the slopes of Stromboli.

Evening Attire Aboard the Renaissance

Not being used to cruises, we wondered before boarding Renaissance what dress codes we should follow for evenings on the ship. The CFC website indicates that tuxedos and long dresses are no longer required on board, as we might have imagined, but instead asks for an elegant yet not formal wardrobe. This leaves considerable room for interpretation, and as a result, we see a wide range of evening styles among our fellow travelers.

After changing, on this second evening, we head to the ‘Ocean’ bar for an aperitif. The New Generation group, accompanied by a talented singer, alternates with a duo of excellent classical musicians, violinist Shayne and cellist Wallie..

Then, after our dinner at the must-visit Vatel restaurant, we head to the amphitheater for the evening show.

The troupe, comprising singers and dancers, presents a musical comedy-style show each evening. The quality is uneven, however, and some members of the troupe sometimes lack professionalism. One artist stands out: Yoan Jacquet. That evening, he presents a one-man show in which he tells us, and sings about, his very personal journey with sensitivity and great talent.

We end the evening with a drink at the panoramic bar. The atmosphere is tame, with music for young people from the 80s… which is the average age of Renaissance passengers!

Day 3: Stopover in Messina, Sicily

We wake up early to quickly go up on deck as Renaissance passes through the Strait of Messina, with its engines at full power to counter the strong current that prevails in this area. The cruise ship makes its way between the ferries that connect Italy to Sicily. A bridge project is under study, but for now, even trains take the boat to cross the strait.

Renaissance docks in the port in the city center. Messina presents a somewhat austere appearance, characterized by severe buildings and wide avenues that intersect at right angles. Messina has indeed experienced many tragic events, such as wars and earthquakes, which have left little of its history intact. Only the 12th-century cathedral is worth visiting, according to the Michelin guide.

So, we decide to rent a car to fully enjoy our long stopover that takes all day.

Taormina: The Saint-Tropez of Sicily

We head to the hilltop village of Taormina. It’s the major attraction of the region and all tourists flock there. We had been warned: ‘You’ll see, you’ll barely be able to walk, there are so many people!’ We are pleasantly surprised, as November is an advantage in that the crowds are moderate.

From its ancient theater, we stroll along its shopping street to its belvedere, which offers an exceptional setting with a view of the snow-capped Etna.

However, we decide not to linger too long in Taormina, which, although very pretty, has lost some of its soul to tourism.

The surrounding villages and their magnificent views of Mount Etna

As we have a car, we visit two other, slightly less well-known villages: Savoca and Castelmola, from which we enjoy a panoramic view of the snow-capped Etna.

We have lunch on the terrace of the excellent Taverna dell’Etna.

The two villages are mainly interesting for their location and the maze of their streets. As we don’t have enough time to go all the way to Etna, we return to Messina in the late afternoon to board the Renaissance.

Day 4: Stop in Palermo, Sicily

After an overnight navigation from Messina, we reach Palermo at 8 am. The weather is still splendid and almost summery.

Other ways to set sail unfolding before our eyes.

So it’s under the Palermo sun, on an outdoor deck, that we have our breakfast when we see two cruise ships arriving: Silver Ray and MSC World Europa. With Renaissance, we have before us three radically different concepts of cruising.

First, the ultra-luxury with Silver Ray from Silversea. The ship is brand new and, for a size very similar to that of the Renaissance, it carries a maximum of 728 passengers, compared to 1100 for the latter. From afar, we have the impression of a large yacht. All cabins are suites with balconies.

Then, World Europa, built in 2022, is a new behemoth considered one of the flagships of the Italian company MSC, with 6,762 passengers! Its tonnage exceeds 215,000 tons, compared to about 55,000 tons for the first two. Seeing this ship maneuver in the small port of Palermo is almost frightening. At the rear, we see a huge patio with two buildings facing each other, lacking maritime character.

The crew-to-passenger ratio provides a good indication of the ship’s marketing positioning. It’s 1 to 1.3 with Silver Ray and 1 to 3.3 with World Europa. Renaissance is in an intermediate range, with approximately 1 crew member for every 2 passengers.

Cruising has become a bit like horse racing: either very elitist or very popular. Overall, we are reassured in our choice of cruising with Renaissance, given its mid-range offerings.

Discovering Palermo, both beautiful and dilapidated

We had never visited Palermo before and, as is often the downside of a cruise, we only have one day to discover it. However, Palermo’s charm doesn’t reveal itself at first glance.

The port is in the city center which can be easily visited on foot.

The city is a juxtaposition of buildings, many of which are in ruins, and splendid churches and palaces. It is worth noting that the city’s history is quite rich. Since the 9th century, the Arabs, Normans, and Spanish have significantly influenced the city’s architecture, resulting in a highly successful blend of styles.

In one day, we cannot visit the numerous palaces or churches of Palermo.

We choose to go to the Palazzo dei Normanni to admire the famous Palatine Chapel. Guy de Maupassant wrote about it: “The Palatine Chapel, the most beautiful in the world, the most surprising religious jewel dreamed by human thought and executed by artist hands.”

It was in this palace that one of Sicily’s most exceptional monarchs lived: Roger II, a Norman king in the 12th century. He established an efficient administration, attracted scholars and artists, and played a key role in establishing the legitimacy and independence of the Kingdom of Sicily in the face of the Byzantine or Germanic empires.

The city is visibly trying to rid itself of the cumbersome mafia. But at a street corner, we come across posters and a memorial in memory of Emanuele Burgio, the son of a former mafioso assassinated in 2021, which is a bit chilling.

From our brief visit, we mainly retain a few images of this city, which we will certainly return to explore in greater detail in the future.

We board the ship for dinner before the long crossing from Palermo to Ajaccio, which takes over 36 hours. After delicate maneuvers with the help of a guide boat, Renaissance leaves the illuminated bay of Palermo.

Day 5: At Sea with Strong Wind Gusts

The captain had warned us: the crossing would be rough with wind gusts exceeding 60 mph. However, we have an excellent night’s sleep. Our cabin is located in the center of the ship, where there is the least movement. Lucky for us!

Visit to the Bridge

We learn that visits to the bridge are possible. However, the number of spots is minimal, and the crew doesn’t advertise it to avoid too many disappointments. We are fortunate enough to sign up for one of the guided tours, which we found fascinating.

Due to my professional background, I’m more familiar with airplane cockpits. What strikes me is the immensity of the bridge. Even though the ship is over 35 years old, there are numerous and very modern navigation instruments. But an amusing detail: like in the old days, a sailor is assigned to watch the sea with the naked eye!

It’s also an opportunity to learn more about the crew’s working conditions by speaking with the officers. Renaissance is registered in Bermuda. With a few exceptions, such as the captain, CFC does not directly employ anyone and instead uses recruitment agencies specialized in the maritime industry. The contracts are governed by local Bermuda laws, which are less protective for employees than in Europe. Salary levels are lower and, especially, the length of workdays is much longer than the 35 hours applied in France.

So there’s no mystery. If European or North American cruise enthusiasts can benefit from very competitive all-inclusive prices, it’s because at the other end of the chain, production costs must be as low as possible. To remain competitive against giants like MSC or Carnival Corporation, CFC cannot escape the highly questionable system of outsourcing maritime employees.

How to Keep Busy on Board During Bad Weather?

Renaissance is faithful to the tradition of entertainment that shipping companies have developed in the past to occupy their passengers during long ocean crossings. As the weather is less conducive to spending long periods on the outer decks, we’re more interested in seeing what to do inside. In the middle of the afternoon, outdoor access will even be prohibited due to violent winds.

Each day, we receive the program of suggested activities for the next day. On land, CFC, of course, offers excursions, but we didn’t have the chance to try them, as we’re rather fierce independent travel enthusiasts.

On board, we could have attended a yoga class or a fitness course every morning, participated in bingo or other games or quizzes. Each afternoon, a new film is also presented in the grand auditorium, which can later be found on the TV in one’s cabin.

Personally, we’re mostly interested in the lectures. The one offered by the second engineer on Renaissance‘s propulsion systems is fascinating.

We also appreciate the old-fashioned library. Many books are available to passengers during the cruise. The setting, with comfortable armchairs and even desks with sea views, is cozy and invites relaxation.

A little further on, several of our travel companions indulge in board games: Scrabble, bridge… CFC had initially planned a casino, but removed it because it did not meet the expectations of the French-speaking clientele. The flashy slot machines didn’t quite fit the ship’s style. I’ll learn upon our return that a new board game lounge will be set up in its place in early 2025.

Given the cooler weather, we still thought about going to the second indoor pool, located under a large glass roof in the center of the ship, on the upper deck. But we noticed that the crew had covered it with a net to prohibit its use, because even there, the waves are impressive! We therefore settled for the two jacuzzis, but one was too hot and the other not hot enough.

Among the activities we didn’t try, due to lack of time, were the spa, which is paid for, and the very nice gym at the front of the ship.

To be honest, most 21st-century cruise enthusiasts, eager for sensations, will find the entertainment outdated. There are no ice rinks, giant slides, acrobats, or slot machines on Renaissance, unlike the most recent ships.

Here, priority is given to the sea and discovering the ports of call. All the better for us, as this is precisely what we’re looking for.

Gala evening!

The end of the cruise is approaching, and a gala evening is organized on board. It’s an opportunity to pay tribute to the servers and chefs of Renaissance.

Day 6: Stopover in Ajaccio, Corsica

We stay only a few hours in Ajaccio, which, at the end of November, seems a bit sleepy. It’s mainly the mountainous setting that gives the city its charm, as it is small and not particularly charming itself.

We take a short walk starting with the market and its excellent Corsican products. Then we pass by the cathedral and Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace before climbing up to the memorial dedicated to him.

We had planned to take a bike ride to the Genoese tower of Parata and the Sanguinaires Islands, but the windy weather discouraged us.

So we return to the ship to simply read and rest before departure, scheduled for 4 PM.

Last sunset before the storm!

Renaissance gently leaves the port of Ajaccio.

We watch our last sunset, which is one of the great pleasures of being at sea!

On the last evening, we are asked to put our suitcases in the corridor. We will retrieve them the next day upon arrival at the terminal.

As soon as we pass the Sanguinaires Islands, the sea becomes rougher.

With winds again reaching nearly 100 km/h, or 10 on the Beaufort scale, it’s a storm! Yet Renaissance is surprisingly stable.

Day 7: Arrival in Marseille

After six days of crossing from Naples, our journey comes to an end. Renaissance glides towards Marseille, one of its two home ports, along with Le Havre.

I have a nostalgic thought for my mother, who left Marseille at the age of 18 in 1951 to travel to Tahiti aboard the Chang Chow. I tell the story of her extraordinary one-month journey in another article: “Journey from Marseille to Tahiti in 1951: A Logbook“. (in French only).

Disembarkation is conducted in successive waves, according to a time slot assigned to each person, to prevent congestion on the gangway.

An unworthy port access !

Arriving or departing from the port of Marseille is far from a pleasant experience.

From the ship, we have to walk a good twenty minutes to a bus stop, where we wait for a long time before an overcrowded shuttle takes us through the port to La Joliette. Finally, we arrive in a gloomy area, totally devoid of amenities, under a huge “Vote CGT” poster (CGT is a powerful trade union in France). The only alternative is to take an overpriced taxi from the cruise terminal. Welcome to Marseille. ☹

The contrast between the quality of Naples’ facilities and their ease of access, even on foot, is not to Marseille’s credit.

Marseille, the French cousin of Naples

We are, however, happy to return to one of the most interesting cities in France. To extend the cruise experience, we decide to spend a night at the Grand Hôtel Beauvau, where the rooms have a magnificent view of the Old Port.

Surprisingly, Marseille and Naples are not twinned, despite their similarities. They are both historical ports dating back to antiquity, situated on the Mediterranean coast. Both cities are built on hills, with spectacular views of their respective bays.

The inhabitants of Naples and Marseille share the common perception that they are often regarded as cosmopolitan, warm, yet undisciplined, direct, and chauvinistic. They also share the same passion for football, specifically for SSC Napoli and Olympique de Marseille.

Working-class neighborhoods, such as the Quartieri Spagnoli in Naples or Le Panier and Le Camas in Marseille, coexist near neighborhoods with sumptuous villas, like Vomero in Naples and Endoume in Marseille.

These are two cities with strong personalities, not always well understood by the rest of their respective countries.

Having seen both cities within just a few days of each other allows us to better appreciate their twinship.

It’s time for a recap !

Due to my personality, I tend to plan my trips well in advance. This time, it wasn’t the case, as we organized everything less than ten days before our departure. I found that this impromptu aspect added charm to our trip, especially since the concept of a cruise was new to us.

A successful cruise

Our experience aboard Renaissance was a success. First, it’s worth noting the staff’s great kindness and availability. We loved the ‘French touch’, particularly in the high-quality gastronomy.

The ship is spacious and well-designed. We quickly felt at home. Moreover, all public spaces are freely accessible, such as the restaurant outside opening hours. Even with rough seas, we found the boat very stable and comfortable. The fact that it’s older, built in 1991, gives it a charming, slightly retro character.

We appreciated not being subjected to commercial pressure to buy additional services or excursions. For example, it’s possible to sit in a bar without consuming.

Having the opportunity to embark in Naples, mid-cruise, was a real plus for us. On the one hand, it allowed us to choose between an extended cruise (13 nights) or a shorter one (6 nights), and on the other hand, we preferred the idea of going from point A to point B, rather than making a loop.

The disembarkations and embarkations at each stop were always very smooth.

In my opinion, the areas for improvement are minor. For example, the air conditioning system in the cabins needs to be revised, as it lacks precision, resulting in temperatures that are either too hot or too cold. Additionally, the jacuzzis have issues with their functioning.

The captain’s interventions could have been more frequent and provided more details about our navigation and the ship’s operations.

What will become of Renaissance with the merger between CFC and Ambassador ?

CFC has planned technical improvements for its ship, Renaissance, during the dry dock in January 2025. This work will allow the vessel to comply with the International Maritime Organization Tier 3 environmental standard. For example, Renaissance will be able to connect to the electrical grid of an equipped port rather than running its engines during the stopover.

Since our cruise, we have learned that CFC is merging with Ambassador Cruise Line, a British group. This merger is explained by economies of scale, as CFC, with only one cruise ship, could hardly survive.

But there are many concerns. Will Renaissance continue to maintain its French-style, somewhat retro cruising concept? Or will the new management decide to align Renaissance with international or Anglo-Saxon standards to reach a wider clientele? If that’s the case, I’m not sure I want to repeat my cruise experience! To be continued…