Explore Cairo in five days taking your time

Three weeks from Cairo to Siwa, then Alexandria and Sinai

In April 2024, we spent three weeks in Egypt, discovering Cairo, the hidden oasis of Siwa, fabulous Alexandria, and Sinai. We built this trip independently, designed to get off the beaten track, and I’ll tell you about it in three articles:

• Explore Cairo in five days (this article)
• En route to the little-known Siwa oasis in the Libyan desert
• Egypt by the Sea: Marsa Matruh, Alexandria, and Sinai

I’ve also written another article with a few keys to independent travel in Egypt so that you can make the most of this extraordinary country.

Overnight arrival in Cairo during Ramadan

To get from Paris to Cairo, we must fly: there are no longer sea links to Egypt from Mediterranean ports.

Our flight schedule is inconvenient, and we arrive in the middle of the night.

Nightlife in Downtown Cairo

Although the airport is some twenty kilometers from the city center, a network of urban highways on stilts allows us to get there quickly. So much the worse for residents who have to contend with heavy traffic up to the third floor!

It’s two o’clock in the morning, and our cab drops us off at Talaat Harb Street, one of the main shopping streets in the city center, Wasat al-Balad.

To our great surprise, we feel it’s mid-afternoon on a sale day, as we see so many people in the street! Our driver tells us that we’re just three days from the end of Ramadan and that custom dictates that everyone dress in new clothes and give gifts for Eid Al-Fitr, so it’s a mad dash to the stores!

We have to make our way through a crowd of shopkeepers desperate to sell us a suit to reach our hotel, the Holy Sheet, which is hidden away on the tenth and top floor of an almost empty building. Tiredly, we collapse on our bed, lulled by the hum of the city.

Five days in Cairo to better understand the city

The city seemed very quiet when we woke up the day after our arrival. Not a sound! It’s hard to believe we’re in the center of one of the world’s largest megalopolises, with a population of 24 million.

We have breakfast on the hotel terrace, offering a spectacular city view. At this height, it’s surprising to see that many more or less temporary constructions have been erected on the roofs, allowing residents to create a little extra space for themselves.

We devoted five days to visiting Cairo, whereas most agencies offer an express tour of two days or even just one day.

Our tour program takes us to several of the capital’s most diverse districts:

• Wasat al-Balad: the Haussmann-inspired city center, which has earned the city the nickname “Paris on the Nile”.
• The Nile: the vital artery that gives Cairo its grandeur.
• Old Cairo: a Christian enclave where Jesus is said to have passed.
• Islamic Cairo: with mosques, souks, and alleyways dating back to pre-Ottoman times.
• Cairo in the time of the Pharaohs: with the Egyptian Museum and the Giza pyramids.

Wasat al-Balad: Paris on the Nile

Our hotel is in the Wasat al-Balad district, the heart of the city, designed in the 19th century by Ismaïl Pacha, the khedive (viceroy) of Egypt and Sudan, who set out to modernize his country. Haussmann’s Paris inspired him to turn Cairo into a capital with broad avenues lined with magnificent French neo-classical buildings converging on star-shaped squares.

The Cairo upper middle class rubbed shoulders with French and British colonists in an environment that was as European as possible, with the ambition of being the Paris on the Nile.

A rich architectural heritage despite lack of maintenance

Since then, history has moved on. The country, particularly under President Nasser, strove to break its ties with European colonizers and anchor Egypt in the Arab world. Cairo no longer sought to compare itself with Paris but did not find new urbanization models.

The consequence is that to stroll through Wasat al-Balad is still to recognize Ismaïl Pacha’s ambition but through facades blighted by a multitude of air-conditioning units and many poorly maintained buildings. The facades of the once elegant stores are now very enticing, with lights of all colors. Commerce is everywhere on the sidewalks and sometimes even in the cars.

Some of Wasat al-Balad’s buildings are still worth seeing, starting with the Metro and Rivoli cinemas, which have retained their beautiful original facades. The Yacoubian building at 34 rue Talaat Harb gained unexpected fame thanks to writer Alaa al-Aswany, who used it as the setting for a novel that paints a vivid and fascinating picture of Cairo society in the 1990s. Finally, the presence of the Cha’ar Ha Chamaim synagogue reminds us that Cairo was once home to a Jewish community that has now almost entirely disappeared.

Only Talaat Harb Square retains the beautiful harmony that Ismaïl Pacha had dreamed of for his own Cairo.

Al-Tahrir Square at the heart of the 2011 revolution

A little further on, we reach the famous Al-Tahrir Square, which has been world-famous since the events of 2011. Meaning “Liberation Square”, it was at the heart of the Arab Spring, with demonstrators occupying it to bring down President Mubarak.

Since then, the army has redeveloped and heavily guarded the square to prevent another revolution in this highly symbolic location.

The souk “ 26th of July Corridor ” not for tourists !

Here’s a place that tourists don’t know! A place we discovered almost by chance during the course of our wanderings.

It’s a gigantic souk beneath an urban highway dubbed the “26th of July Corridor”. It doesn’t have the typical stone vaults of Khan El-Khalili, but it does have the advantage of being authentic and frequented only by Cairenes.

We enjoy Wasat al-Balad at night during Ramadan and Eid Al-Fitr.

Many Western tourists prefer to avoid visiting Egypt during Ramadan. This period indeed has its drawbacks: opening hours for museums and public places are more restricted, and it’s challenging to find restaurants or cafés open during the day. However, being in Cairo at this time of year means sharing an incredibly festive atmosphere with the locals every evening.

While the Wasat al-Balad district is calm during the day, it comes alive in the evening. The crowds become dense, both on the sidewalks and in the shops or in front of the many food stalls. Just before breaking the fast, lines of hungry Cairenes form in front of enormous kebabs! This is the moment we prefer to stroll through this neighborhood after our daily visits.

This is when we realize how difficult it is to cross streets or boulevards “Cairo-style”. Whatever the traffic density or the speed of the cars, you have to pluck up your courage and walk at a leisurely but confident pace, never retreating even a centimeter, trying to catch the drivers’ gaze straight in the eyes. The first few times are terrifying, but you soon get used to it.

The majestic Nile

Like the people of Cairo, we’ve got into the habit of going to the banks of the Nile every evening, which, more than a river, is the very essence of Egypt. Without it, the country would simply not exist, as it would be a waterless desert. Indeed, the river is the foundation of popular culture, celebrated to the same degree as a symbol of prosperity and Egypt’s beauty.

Popular festival on the Qasr el Nil bridge

At Eid al-Fitr time, the Qasr el-Nil Bridge, which links Al-Tahrir Square to Gezira, is one of the most fascinating places. Many young Cairenes stroll along it in small, more or less enthusiastic groups in a festive atmosphere while observing the heavy traffic of boats of all kinds on the river.

We also witness the departure of popular cruises, which Cairenes has taken by storm. These boats combine a heterogeneous mix: boys as wild as on the dance floors of London or Paris and wise, reserved couples enjoying the effervescence more discreetly.

Gezira: a trendy island

To visit Gezira is to enter another universe, that of an Egypt turned towards a globalized society and way of life. Here, women are less likely to wear the veil, signs of wealth are more visible, and LGBT people dare to meet each other.

To the south of the island, the new Opera House and the Cairo Tower are emblematic monuments of modern-day Cairo.

After our long days of walking and sightseeing, we enjoy the peace and tranquility of the gardens at the Sofitel hotel. Its location, at the southern tip of Gezira Island, is unique. Sitting at a table right by the river, we never tire of the view and the many boats sailing on the Nile.

Zamalek, Cairo’s chic residential district, is north of the island. We would have visited it if we’d had more days, as other districts seemed more interesting.

Cairo: a city (slightly) less homophobic again?

In 2001, police raided a discotheque boat known as a gay meeting place, arresting 52 men on charges of debauchery. The trial had a significant international impact and put Egypt on the dark list of countries that severely repressed homosexuality.

After our first night at the hotel, we decide to stay with a local, an option that has grown significantly in recent years and allows us to hope for a more authentic connection with the Cairenes.

We are warmly welcomed by a young Egyptian who has lived in Australia. In the conversation, we learn that after years marked by rigorist Islam, the country is now experiencing a form of liberalization, albeit timid but very real. Much of this momentum comes from Saudi Arabia, which has initiated a veritable revolution in recent years, as witnessed by the reopening of cinemas after 35 years of closure or the authorization for women to drive. Egypt, eager to maintain a more liberal profile than its neighbor, has followed this trend.

Our host advised us to go one evening to the Marriott Hotel, housed in the former Al-Gezira Palace, built in 1869 by Khedive Ismail. It has become a meeting place for the city’s jet-set. The building has retained its splendor, and the gardens around the pool are charming. It’s one of the few places in Cairo where gay couples can come out without fear.

Our host, although straight, tells us he has many gay friends. Without being too naive, we hope this is a sign of positive change in Egypt towards this community. What’s more, in a slightly out-of-the-way district, we are astonished to discover a very homoerotic advertising poster!

La corniche “Mamsha Ahl Misr: a pleasant stroll on the banks of the Nile

“Mamsha Ahl Misr” is a recently and beautifully landscaped corniche offering beautiful views of the Nile and, opposite, Zamalek, the chic residential district.

We stroll pleasantly along the river, with numerous cafés and restaurants on one side and the majestic river on the other. Looking up, we see monumental buildings, including the Hotel Saint-Régis. We finish at the Zaza Cuisine restaurant.

Old Cairo, a Coptic stronghold on the defensive

Egypt, and Cairo in particular, is home to a significant Coptic Christian minority. We pay them a visit in one of the city’s oldest districts.

Getting to Old Cairo by metro

Going to the Old Cairo district allows us to take the Cairo metro. The first line was built with French help in 1987. It was an industrial feat, given the density of the city’s buildings and the Nile waters that seep into the sandy terrain.

Today, there are three lines connecting the center to the distant suburbs. We found it quite efficient and well-maintained. Two cars on each train are reserved for women to protect them from inappropriate male gestures.

Coptic community targeted by numerous attacks

We get off at Mar Girgis station. The Coptic quarter is right next door. We visit it one afternoon, but even in this Christian quarter, the reduced opening hours during Ramadan prevent us from seeing everything we’d like to. On the plus side, the number of tourists is low.

Old Cairo has a ghetto atmosphere. The district is heavily guarded by the police, as over the last fifteen years, Copts have been the target of several attacks by the Muslim Brotherhood. It’s only indoors that Christians can feel truly free.

When I first visited Egypt in the 80s, the Coptic bourgeoisie was much more visible in society.

Following in the Footsteps of Jesus’ Flight to Egypt

In this district, several churches, a monastery, and a synagogue are grouped in a labyrinth of narrow streets encircled by ancient Roman walls.

The best known is the Hanging Church, so named because it was built on the towers of an ancient Roman fortress and temple. This is where we spend most of our time admiring the icons.

Saint-Serge church owes its fame to Jesus himself! According to the evangelist Matthew, King Herod of Judea, warned by the Magi of the birth of the King of the Jews, ordered the killing of all children under the age of two born in Bethlehem. Joseph learned of this in a dream and decided to flee to Egypt. During their four-year journey, the Holy Family is said to have stayed in a cave on the church’s site.

Authentic Old Islamic Cairo

This district is so rich in mosques, palaces, and souks that you must devote two days to it. It was built in the 7th century when the Muslim Arabs conquered Egypt, ending the Byzantine period. We found it very charming.

Stroll through the medieval quarter around Khan El-Khalili

We start, of course, with Khan El-Khalili, famous for its vast bazaar, often rushed through by groups of tourists. But there’s more to it than that, as many narrow streets are worth exploring. And that’s just what we’re doing.

Our first visit is to the Sayyidna el-Hussein mosque. Although it dates back to the 20th century, it’s well worth the detour, as it’s above all a place of life, busy at all hours of the day. The faithful come here not only to pray but also to rest and socialize.

When we leave, we find ourselves immersed in an atmosphere that seems to have changed little over the centuries. It’s like being transported back to the tales of a thousand and one nights!

We take a lunch break on the terrace of the Hotel Ryad, superbly renovated in an Ottoman style. This moment of calm is a pleasant break from the hustle and bustle of the district.

A must-see in the area is Beit el-Suhaymi, a beautifully restored complex of three 17th-century mansions. We enter an inner courtyard and visit various rooms designed to receive distinguished guests. Upstairs is the domain of the women, who discreetly observed the comings and goings of the men from their openwork wooden windows.

We reach the ramparts that encircled the ancient medieval city of Cairo. Three massive gates remain, including the well-preserved Bab al-Futuh.

Bab al-Nasr cemetery: the city of the dead

On the other hand, we visit the Bab al-Nasr cemetery, a site with a strange atmosphere where tombs and dwellings rub shoulders. Here, families have settled in abandoned mausoleums, the living among the dead.

Initially, it was the cemetery janitors who started living there to stay close to their place of work. However, in the 20th century, the rural exodus and the severe housing crisis prompted many people to seek alternative places to live, and cemeteries became unexpected refugees.

We remain discreet, anxious not to give the impression of practicing inappropriate voyeurism. Living conditions there are extremely precarious, with almost no running water and electricity. Cairenes have a divided view of these “cities of the dead.” Some see them as a symbol of resilience and resourcefulness. In contrast, others see them as glaring proof of the failure of urban policies.

Today, the future of the cemetery remains uncertain. Rumors are circulating of an urban renewal program, which could include the partial demolition of the site to turn it into a parking lot. This type of project illustrates the tension between modernization and the preservation of an area steeped in history and memory.

El-Ghuri funeral complex

Another day, we explore a different part of the Islamic Quarter, starting with the El-Ghuri funerary complex. This architectural complex was built in the early 16th century by Sultan Qansuh al-Ghuri, who wished to assert his power and leave a monument to his memory after his death.

The complex consists of a mosque and a mausoleum, linked by a roof that spans a busy street. Its architecture is typically Mamluk, with sumptuous mosaic decorations, finely chiseled marble panels, and elegant calligraphic inscriptions on the walls.

We feel privileged as we explore the complex in complete tranquility, accompanied only by the site’s caretaker. He even invites us to climb a narrow spiral staircase leading to the minaret’s top. From there, we are treated to a breathtaking view, revealing the rooftops of the Islamic district, its minarets, and its winding alleys.

Rue El-Mouiz Li-din Allah: an open-air museum

We then take the long El-Mouiz Li-Din Allah pedestrian street, a veritable open-air museum. Its majestic mosques and old mansions adorned with moucharabieh balconies plunge us into another time. The peaceful atmosphere contrasts with the incessant hustle and bustle of the rest of Cairo, which we left behind.

On the way, we pass through the Kheyyameyya souk, renowned for its colorful fabrics and traditional crafts. Beautifully restored, it offers a timeless interlude. Unfortunately, as it’s Ramadan and still early in the day, the stalls are closed, depriving the place of its usual hustle and bustle.

A little further on, we discover the superb Aqsunqur Mosque, also known as the Blue Mosque because of its walls decorated with exquisite blue earthenware.

We’re particularly fond of this area, whose almost rural atmosphere and peaceful lifestyle seem to belong to another century.

Cairo’s iconic mosques

Our walk takes us to Cairo’s most famous mosque, Sultan Hassan, a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. Majestic and imposing, it embodies the grandeur of the 14th century when it was built.

Across the street, we visit the Er-Rifai Mosque. It houses the tomb of Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran. Forced into exile after the Iranian revolution led by Ayatollah Khomeini, the Shah wandered through several countries before being welcomed by his friend, Egyptian President Anwar al-Sadat. The latter offered him refuge, and after he died in Cairo in 1980, he was buried in this mosque, which already served as a mausoleum for members of the Egyptian royal families.

During our visit, we notice many Iranians who had come to pay homage to the former sovereign, testifying to the symbolic importance of this place for members of the Iranian diaspora.

Our walk ends at the Ibn Touloun mosque, one of the oldest and largest in Cairo. Although we can only explore it from the outside due to the restricted hours of Ramadan, we can observe its original minaret, featuring a spiral staircase, an architectural rarity reminiscent of Mesopotamian constructions.

Cairo and its pharaonic heritage

Even if our trip wasn’t to the Egypt of the Pharaohs, we couldn’t resist revisiting the Egyptian Museum and the Pyramids. Two truly exceptional places!

The Egyptian Museum: emotion still intact

The Egyptian Museum, located near Al-Tahrir Square, exudes a unique atmosphere thanks to its antiquated character. This old-fashioned character gives it its charm: the objects are abundantly displayed in old showcases, most of which have remained unchanged since the museum’s inauguration in 1902. It’s almost as if you’re Indiana Jones, exploring this temple to ancient history.

The Ramadan period works in our favor, limiting the usual influx of tourists. Once inside, we also decided to adopt a strategic approach: instead of following the logical, chronological order of the rooms, we oriented ourselves towards those that seemed less crowded. This method allows us to enjoy the visit to the full without feeling overwhelmed by tourist groups.

The history of the Pharaonic era, spanning almost 3,000 years, is impressively rich but also complex. Not being experts, we choose to browse the museum, focusing on the beauty of the pieces rather than their historical context. We tell ourselves we can always read on and deepen our knowledge later.

Of course, we also spend a long time in the room devoted to Tutankhamun’s treasure. This treasure is quite simply extraordinary. What strikes us is that this pharaoh, though considered a minor, was surrounded by so much wealth. It makes us wonder about the treasures of more important pharaohs, now lost or looted.

The pyramids of Giza

Our second visit is to the Giza pyramids. Of course, they are ultra-touristy, but these monuments always impress us with their superhuman dimensions and the beauty of their geometry.

We get there by cab. The main entrance is next to the Mena House, one of the country’s most prestigious hotels. It has welcomed many heads of state and celebrities, and the view of the pyramids is unique.

The pyramid site is immense. Most tourists stay around the Cheops Pyramid, the largest and closest to the entrance. We get away from it all and set off on a short hike that takes us past the Pyramid of Khephren, then Mykerinos, to a hill with a panoramic view of the site. After chasing off a few camel drivers who were a little too insistent on taking us there on the backs of their beasts, we appreciate the majesty of the site, where we find ourselves almost alone.

Although the pyramids are world-famous, they retain their mystery, even lending them a mystical quality. In these conditions, our walk is meant to be meditative, and we take our time to savor it.

We end our visit at a small restaurant off the site, with a magnificent view of the pyramids from its terrace.

Cairo: a fascinating but challenging megalopolis

In five days in Cairo, we didn’t see time go by; we only touched the surface of this gigantic metropolis. We couldn’t visit everything, and we were far from it! For example, we would have been very interested to see how the “New Cairo” is being built, the government’s major project to relieve congestion in the capital.

Yet, with a certain sense of relief, we leave Cairo to continue our journey. While the city is fascinating, it is also exhausting: the incessant noise, the dense traffic, the omnipresent crowds, and the highly polluted air make the stay quite taxing. Walking its streets requires constant vigilance, dodging weaving cars and navigating crowded sidewalks. Apart from Gezira Island, quiet spaces to relax are few and far between.

Visiting the city at the end of Ramadan and during the Eid Al-Fitr holiday was a real treat. It was a unique time of year, rich in tradition and festivities.

Cairo has surprises in store for us every day! In what other capital city can we see a flock of sheep in the middle of town?

Cairo is undoubtedly a city that cannot be tamed in a single visit. It seems to require several visits to discover all its facets and appreciate all its nuances. That’s why, despite the fatigue it can cause, we’re still keen to return someday.