The Isle of Skye, a Train through the Heart of the Highlands and Edinburgh: the Best of Scotland

From Paris to Scotland: a Nine-Day Journey by Train and Ferry, without Planes and almost without Cars

In March 2025, I decided to visit Scotland without taking a plane, favoring comfortable means of transport, especially those that please me!

For the outbound journey, I did everything by train: from Paris to London with the Eurostar, then from London to Fort William in a sleeper car aboard the Caledonian Sleeper. An original and successful journey, which I recount in this first article of this series dedicated to my trip to Scotland: Paris – Scotland by train: great comfort with Eurostar and Caledonian Sleeper

Once there, I chose to discover two iconic places: the Isle of Skye, famous for its magnificent landscapes, and Edinburgh, a charming historic capital full of activities. I connected the two by train, an excellent way to enjoy the splendors of the Highlands. This is the subject of this second article to discover in three parts:

• The Isle of Skye in two days by car
• From Portree to Edinburgh by bus and train through the Highlands
• Two days for a first discovery of Edinburgh

For the return to Paris, I opted for a train + ferry combination, via Newcastle and Amsterdam. An unusual itinerary that almost gave me the impression of going on a cruise. This is the third and final article in this series: Return from Scotland to Paris via Amsterdam by train and ferry: an unique journey

In this last article, I also give you practical advice and links to organize your trip.

The Isle of Skye in Two Days by Car

The Isle of Skye is one of the most picturesque and, therefore, most visited places in Scotland. This is understandable, as the landscapes are magnificent and contain everything found in the country.

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I Organize My Mini Stay

I decide to stay for two days to get a first glimpse of the island and see if it makes me want to come back.

Book your Hotel Well in Advance!

Even in March, a relatively low season, accommodations fill up quickly. I dare not imagine what it’s like in July-August!

Fortunately, I had planned ahead and booked a hotel room several weeks in advance. I opted for The Caledonian, right in the heart of the small town of Portree, which is the main town on the island.

I didn’t regret my choice, as I was very well received. The hotel is simple but recently renovated. I can only recommend it.

Renting a Car is Inevitable

To visit the Isle of Skye, I resigned myself to renting a car because the bus network is sparse and the distances too great to be covered on foot or by bike.

I rent a car from the only rental company in Portree: Morrison. Driving on the Isle of Skye presents two challenges for a French guy. The first is using the gear stick with the left hand, which quickly gives an impression of clumsiness. The second is learning to navigate the narrow roads, the famous “single track roads,” where you always have to keep your gaze far ahead to pull over into the “passing places” when you see a car coming in the opposite direction.

I decide to visit the northern peninsulas of the island on the first day and to search for the best views around the Cuillin Hills massif on the second day.

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First Day: Visiting the Northern Peninsulas of the Isle of Skye

On my first day, I leave Portree (1) to visit the north of the island. The weather is still very sunny—so un-Scottish! It is a rare pleasure that I fully savor.

The numbers on the map below will help you find your way as you read the text.

The Trotternish Peninsula and its Multiple Attractions

I start by following the coastal road to the east of the Trotternish peninsula. The route is spectacular: it attracts the most visitors due to its numerous points of interest. I start with the site of the Old Man of Storr (2), a giant stone monolith that can be reached after a hike of about two hours. It is considered a must-see on the island.

Seeing the paid parking lot already full at the start of the walk, despite the low season, I decide not to venture there. For me, Scotland is above all about the feeling of solitude in the face of magnificent landscapes, which are not necessarily featured in guidebooks or on Instagram posts.

I prefer to stop a little further to reach An Leth’s viewpoint (3). The place is more peaceful, and I enjoy beautiful sea views, salmon farming fields, a waterfall, and a charming beach.

A little further on, another highly touristic place: Kilt Rock (4). It’s a waterfall that falls into the sea. Magnificent, but a huge adjacent parking lot, almost empty in March, somewhat spoils the impression of having the place to oneself.

I continue towards Staffin Bay (5), which is of great beauty. A single-track road leads to a beach where, at low tide, you can discover fossilized dinosaur footprints in the rock!

I like the houses with white walls and black roofs scattered throughout the landscape. They resemble their Breton cousins.

The Mysterious Duntulm Castle

At the northern tip of the peninsula, I leave the car for a short walk to the ruins of Duntulm Castle (6). Here, I decide to have a picnic and enjoy the view.

Then, the road forks south towards the port of Uig (7). On the way, I pass by the Skye Museum of Island Life. It only opens in the season, but the guides specify that it’s very interesting to understand Scottish life in the past. I content myself with observing it from the outside.

I arrive in Uig at the same time as the ferry that connects the Isle of Skye to the Outer Hebrides. I don’t know what they look like, but seeing them on a map makes me dream. They form a kind of rampart to protect Scotland from the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean. I’ll visit them another time.

Towards the Mysterious Nest Point Lighthouse

I then have a bit of a drive to get to Nest Point (9). It’s a lighthouse located at the extreme west of the Isle of Skye that is very renowned. The journey, especially towards the end, is superb. Unfortunately, I have to stop at the village of Mallaig located more than 5 km away from the lighthouse, because the road is under construction. It’s too late to go to the lighthouse on foot, but the municipal agent advises me to climb up to the first pass to see Loch Mor (8). That’s what I do, and I absolutely don’t regret it, because the view with the play of light is magnificent.

I end the day by heading towards the Waternish peninsula (10) located outside the island’s main attractions. It’s all the better for me, as I enjoy landscapes, small ports, or peaceful and harmonious villages with few or no tourists!

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Second Day on the Isle of Skye: Immersion in the Heart of the Cuillin Hills

For my second day on the Isle of Skye, I decide to explore several viewpoints of the Cuillin Hills, two of the most spectacular mountain ranges in Scotland. Due to the relief and the presence of the sea, I can’t go around them in a loop: I have to make several round trips to reach the sites that interest me.

The numbers on the map below will help you find your way as you read the text.

From Portree (1), I take the island’s main road towards Broadford (2). From there, I take a single-track road towards the small village of Elgol (3). I’m almost alone, and the photos speak better than words to describe what I feel facing the raw beauty of the landscapes.

Elgol is a pretty little fishing village at the end of the peninsula. During the season, boat excursions are organized to Camasunary.

Camasunary: an Exceptional View of the Cuillin Hills

On the way back, I plan to stop at a place called Camasunary (4) to get closer to the most imposing Black Cuillin Hills. Google Maps shows me a road, but when I arrive at the supposed intersection, I find nothing! Only a hiking trail seems to lead there, so I decide to continue on foot.

After about an hour of walking, I reach a pass: wow effect! The view is spectacular, with the Cuillin mountains plunging into the sea. In the distance, I can see Sgùrr Alasdair, the highest point on the island at 992 meters. Despite its modest altitude, its ascent is reserved for experienced mountaineers.

Camasunary consists of a wild beach and two isolated houses in an exceptional environment.

The Melancholic Beach of Glenbrittle

I retrace my steps to find my car and continue to my next stop: Glenbrittle beach. As the crow flies, it’s only fifteen kilometers away, but I have to drive 70 km in 1h15. Fortunately, the beauty of the journey makes the detour quite acceptable.

On the way, I pass near the Fairy Pools (5), one of the island’s major attractions, which I choose not to visit due to the crowds. For me, the pleasure of Scotland lies in solitude in the heart of nature. And here, it’s easy: there are so many superb places that everyone doesn’t have to gather in the same spots.

Arriving at Glenbrittle (6), the sky becomes slightly overcast, and a chilly wind picks up. It’s already two in the afternoon, and I’m hungry. I curl up in a sheltered hollow on the beach to eat my sandwich. The Isle of Skye remains true to its Scottish reputation. The place inspires a gentle melancholy in me.

The Very Photogenic Beach of Talisker Bay

My last visit of the day is Talisker Bay (7), a little-known beach, accessible after a half-hour walk. It’s very photogenic, with its pebbles and cliffs. I pass by a charming isolated manor house, surrounded only by sheep.

Loch Harport: a Feast for the Eyes

To return to Portree, I spot a small isolated road that runs along Loch Harport. With the setting sun, the landscapes become almost graphic.

Portree: the Main Town on the Isle of Skye

In comparison, Portree seems very urban, with a modest, pleasant town center and a small fishing port lined with colorful, very photogenic houses. It’s an excellent base for visiting the island, and I recommend it.

For my last evening, I treat myself to dinner at Dulse & Brose, a good gourmet restaurant. This is a change from the traditional fish and chips or pizzas served in most other establishments.

From Portree to Edinburgh by Bus and Train through the Highlands

The Isle of Skye was an excellent surprise for me, and I would gladly return. As my trip was a first exploration of the many facets of Scotland, I chose to continue by visiting its capital: Edinburgh.

It takes me a day to make the journey from Portree to Edinburgh, but it’s a relaxing trip, rich in landscapes, and offers many discoveries. I wasn’t bored! It’s also an opportunity for me to discover the Highlands.

I take a bus and three trains: the bus from Portree to Kyle of Lochalsh, a first train – the most spectacular – to Inverness, then a second to Stirling, and finally a third to arrive in Edinburgh. The connections are short but seem feasible.

Portree 10:35 AM – Kyle of Lochalsh 11:36 AM by Bus

I start with a bus journey from Portree to Kyle of Lochalsh with the Scottish City Link company.

We are only five travelers on board. I position myself on the left side to fully enjoy the east coast views of the Isle of Skye that we’re following. I’ve already traveled a good part of the journey by car, but I benefit more from the landscape by not driving and being at a greater height.

Kyle of Lochalsh is located opposite the Isle of Skye. To reach the small town, we have to go up the ‘Skye Bridge’, which was inaugurated in 1995 to replace the significant ferry traffic on Kyle Akin. Of course, it’s faster and more convenient than taking the Mallaig—Armadale ferry, but it also has less charm.

Kyle of Lochalsh is not a place where one lingers. Apart from two or three shops, there isn’t much, and it’s primarily a train station, right by the sea, as cute as can be. Everything seems miniature to me, including my train, which has only two cars.

Kyle of Lochalsh 12:08 PM- Inverness 2:42 PM

The journey between Kyle of Lochalsh and Dingwall, on the east coast, is only 102.7 km, but it’s undoubtedly one of the most superb railway lines in the United Kingdom. Yet it had a close call, as in the 1970s, there was talk of closing it due to being too expensive to maintain for a very low volume of activity.

Before the train departs, I buy myself a picnic to enhance my journey, as there’s no food service on board. I quite like these peaceful countryside trains that are a change from the crowded trains of the Paris region.

We’re not very many on board and I can easily move from one side to the other to make the most of the scenery.

The train has the characteristic noise of a diesel engine that roars at each start. We follow the Loch Carron for a good while, which is an arm of the sea that extends far inland. The still beautiful weather gives a bucolic, almost Mediterranean dimension to the landscape.

We’re traveling at an average speed of 50 km/h, which gives me time to observe the landscape well.

Then, gradually, we climb inland through a narrow valley towards the high plateaus, the famous Highlands, a succession of forests, moors, rivers, and lakes.

From time to time, we see small isolated farms.

A curiosity of the route, we serve a number of stations with optional stops. You must notify the conductor in advance, or for boarding passengers, call from the platform to request the stop!

Gradually the landscape becomes more domesticated with cultivated fields and pastures.

At Dingwall, our train joins the “Far North Line” which goes up to “the northernmost station in Scotland: Thurso. But, for us, we head south to reach Inverness.

The train finishes its journey along the Beauly Firth, which looks like a lake but is actually an arm of the sea.

Inverness 2:50 PM – Stirling 5:39 PM – 6:03 PM – Edinburgh 6:50 PM

My visit to Inverness will be very brief since I only have eight minutes to jump from one train to another! I would have liked to stay and see this city, but I have choices to make in ten days. It will be for another time.

My train is an intercity bound for Glasgow, Scotland’s largest city and economic center. I’m traveling in First Class, with very comfortable leather seats.

On the opposite platform is the Caledonian Sleeper already prepared for its evening return to London.

Canned water and biscuits are graciously made available to passengers.

Although the countryside is a bit less wild, with more villages at the foot of the mountains, the landscape is still beautiful and interesting to look at. The only problem, but it’s a major one for a blogger, is that the windows are very dirty, preventing me from taking photos to share with you.

We go around Cairngorms National Park where Balmoral Castle is located, where Queen Elizabeth II passed away.

In Stirling, I have to change trains to get to Edinburgh. It’s dark now and I’m eager to reach my destination.

Only the last hour seems a bit long, but I don’t regret taking the train. In one day, I got a good overview of Scotland while comfortably seated in uncrowded trains. I feel rested, which wouldn’t have been the case if I had chosen to make the journey by car. It would have taken me five to six hours of driving to cover the 400 km that separate Portree from Edinburgh.

Two Days for a First Discovery of Edinburgh

Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and has a reputation for being a beautiful city. As a result, it is also very touristy and even in March, I’m far from being the only one wanting to visit it.

Finding accommodation in Edinburgh is difficult, as hotel prices are high for a less-than-satisfactory quality-price ratio. Before leaving, I spent a lot of time on the internet looking for the rare gem! I found a room in a private home in Leith, the neighborhood near Edinburgh’s port. The apartment is nicely decorated, and, with my host being absent, I have it all to myself.

Thanks to the single tram line that goes to the airport, access to the city center is simple and quick. It’s like the backbone of the urban transport system.

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Visiting Edinburgh for the First Time

This is my first time visiting Edinburgh. Reading the tourist guides, I realize it would be futile to try to discover everything, as the city is rich in museums, castles, and other places to see.

Should one Rush to See the Must-Sees?

Three attractions are considered “must-sees”: The Castle, Palace of Holyroodhouse, and the Royal Yacht Britannia. Visiting them all requires a high budget since in 2025, you have to spend £65 per person to see them all. Given that I only have two days, I decided not to include them in my program.

Wandering around the City to Feel the Atmosphere

I prefer to simply wander around the city to take its pulse and feel its atmosphere. And if I’m charmed by it, I know I’ll come back to discover it more in-depth. This was the case, for example, with Hamburg, which I visited several times and which I present in a dedicated article : Discover Hamburg on foot and by bike

I decide to dedicate the first day to visiting the Old Town and the second to discovering the neighborhoods of the New Town, Stockbridge, and the former small hamlet of Dean along the small river that runs through the city to the sea: The Water of Leith.

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First Day: Walk in Old Town and its Medieval Ambiances

I start from Waverley Station (1), Edinburgh’s central station, to climb up to Old Town, perched on a steep hill that, I imagine, must have once formed a real natural fortress. The station, extended by a pretty park, occupies the site of a former lake, the Nor’ Loch, drained in the 19th century.

The numbers on the map below will help you find your way as you read the text.

The Castle: an Impregnable Fortress

From the park, I admire the Castle (2), a citadel perched on an impressive rocky outcrop, visible from afar. I reach it through steep alleys to a huge square that showcases the building. The origins of the Castle date back to the 11th century, and its history is complex. It has been, in turn, a royal residence, a prison, and a barracks, and has played a central role in the numerous conflicts between Scotland and England. Seen from afar, it looks like an impregnable fortress.

I descend towards Grassmarket (3), on the hill’s southern slope, to enjoy the best views of the Castle. It’s a former cattle market that has become a neighborhood of very popular pubs and restaurants.

I then continue towards West Bow (4), one of the most photographed streets in the city, with its colorful houses and its arc shape.

Strolling along the Royal Mile

I arrive at St Giles’ Cathedral (5) a little higher up. It is very elegant in its simplicity, which enhances the stone and stained glass windows.

Then I walk down the famous Royal Mile, a grand thoroughfare that connects the Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Partially pedestrianized and lined with beautiful buildings, it’s pretty impressive.

On either side, small streets or alleys branch off. It’s worth venturing into them: I find some of the city’s medieval atmosphere there. For a moment, I’m tempted to buy a kilt from John Morrison to feel truly Scottish. Ultimately, I’ll content myself with watching a bagpiper on the street corner!

Gradually, I reach the end of the Royal Mile, where a modern building stands out: the Scottish Parliament (6). It was designed — not by coincidence — by a Catalan architect, Enric Miralles. Catalonia and Scotland: same struggle!

Holyrood: a Royal Residence and an Ancient Volcano

Just across is the beautiful Holyroodhouse Palace (7), which remains a royal residence for one week a year, traditionally between late June and early July. The king is welcomed there by the Lord Provost, equivalent to the Mayor of Edinburgh, who symbolically hands him the keys to the city… which the king then returns to him for safekeeping.

I finish my visit with Holyrood Park, located on an ancient volcano dating back 350 million years. Its current form is the result of glaciations and subsequent erosion. I find it remarkable that such a vast wild park is located right in the heart of Edinburgh. Its summit, Arthur’s Seat, rises to 251 m and is a very popular hiking destination.

I choose another path, a bit lower, towards Hutton’s Section (8), which offers a clearer view of Edinburgh’s city center and Holyroodhouse Palace.

Scottish National Gallery: Small but Rich

Before returning to rest, I make one last visit to the Scottish National Gallery (9), which presents a beautiful collection of paintings in a building located near Waverley Station. I particularly appreciated the Scottish works.

A Rainy Saturday Night!

In the evening, it rains… and heavily! I’m not complaining, as the weather forecast predicted rain all day long. Fortunately, most of the showers stayed out at sea. I choose to have dinner at the Cannonball restaurant, right next to the Castle, and I’m lucky enough to get the table with a view of the esplanade. Before taking the tram back to sleep at my host’s place, I enjoy the mysterious atmosphere that the rain gives to the old town, now deserted by tourists.

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Second Day: Walk through New Town and Stockbridge: Georgian Elegance and a Slightly Bohemian Village Charm

On the second day, I take the tram from my host’s place in Leith to St Andrew Square (1). I set out to discover very different neighborhoods of Edinburgh.

The numbers on the map below will help you find your way as you read the text.

New Town: a Model of Urban Planning

I start my walk through New Town, located north of the Old Town. Its architecture is Georgian-inspired and follows a carefully established plan from the 18th century by a young 23-year-old architect, totally unknown at the time: James Craig. He had been tasked with designing a new district to decongest the old town. Since then, Edinburgh has preserved the architectural principles he laid down, giving the whole area great harmony and beautiful geometric rigor.

New Town has many pleasant squares and parks (2), but most are private: only residents and their dogs can enjoy them.

Stockbridge: the Best Place to Live in Edinburgh

I then head to Stockbridge, located just north of New Town. It’s a former village incorporated into Edinburgh in the 19th century. Now a residential area, it’s full of charm with its pretty houses and cobbled streets. If I were to live in Edinburgh one day, I think this would be my favorite neighborhood.

I walk along Gloucester Lane (4), a street lined with small houses that coachmen and service staff once inhabited. The stables were at street level to house the horses and their carriages. The bourgeois families they served resided in the elegant buildings of Moray Place (3).

Then I arrive at Stockbridge Market (5). This small market has become very popular on Sunday mornings, with stalls offering simple and affordable food.

Right next to it is Raeburn Place, where you can find many trendy, typically bohemian-bourgeois shops and restaurants. This is where I have lunch, fish and chips at Hector’s (6), a renowned British pub, very popular with locals.

Next, I visit the Colonies (7). These are sets of houses built by workers’ unions according to a cooperative model. Today, they are highly sought after by a wealthier clientele for their charm, tranquility, and the possibility of having a small garden in the city center.

A Bucolic Walk along the Water of Leith

I then join the Water of Leith, at the level of the old hamlet of Dean (8). At this point, the river flows at the bottom of a rather spectacular gorge. If I had had more time, I would have extended my walk to its mouth in Leith, following the pleasant pedestrian path that runs alongside it.

I end my walk by retracing my steps towards Princes Street (9), the main shopping street of the New Town. From the park below, I have magnificent views of the Castle.

Leith: the Port District with the Best Restaurants

In the evening, I choose to dine in the Leith district, with its port and maritime atmosphere. This is where some of Edinburgh’s best restaurants are located. I go to Domenico’s, an excellent establishment run by an Italian family.

The next morning, I take a quick tour of the neighborhood before catching my train for the rest of my trip.

A First Discovery of Scotland between Nature and City

This first immersion in Scotland was a very pleasant experience. As I only had a few days, I deliberately chose to focus on the Isle of Skye, for its nature aspect, and on Edinburgh, for its historical and urban side.

Traveling in March seems like a good idea to enjoy Scotland with fewer tourists and without the midges, a small insect that bites very hard and can spoil a summer stay.

I was very lucky with the weather: rather sunny on the Isle of Skye, and overcast, but without rain, in Edinburgh – except for one evening.

Isle of Skye: a Well-Deserved Reputation

The Isle of Skye’s reputation is not undeserved. The landscapes are truly extraordinary. I would gladly return to hike and better enjoy nature. I deliberately avoided the major tourist spots, the so-called must-see places, to explore less crowded areas, where nature is just as wild and grandiose, but which one appreciates more in a certain form of solitude. From this point of view, I appreciated going there in March, a period of low tourist traffic.

A Spectacular Train Journey Discovering the Highlands

The bus and train journey between the two was also a great moment of pleasure, with the discovery of the Highlands.

I highly recommend it.

Edinburgh: a City to Visit Several Times

Edinburgh surprised me with its rich heritage and dynamism. As I did, staying there for two days only gives you a first glimpse, leaving me a bit frustrated. I advise dedicating at least three to five days to it, or returning there several times.