Paris – Scotland by Train: Great Comfort with Eurostar and Caledonian Sleeper

From Paris to Scotland: a Nine-Day Journey by Train and Ferry, without Planes and almost without Cars

In March 2025, I decided to visit Scotland without taking a plane, favoring comfortable means of transport, especially those that please me!

I did everything by train for the outward journey: from Paris to London with Eurostar, then from London to Fort William in a sleeper car aboard the Caledonian Sleeper. An original and successful trip, which I recount in this first article of a series dedicated to my journey to Scotland in four parts:

• Paris 12:02 PM — London 1:30 PM with Eurostar
• An afternoon in London
• London 9:15 PM — Fort William 10 AM the next day with Caledonian Sleeper
• From Fort William to the Isle of Skye by train, ferry, bus and hitchhiking!

Once there, I chose to discover two iconic places: the Isle of Skye, famous for its grandiose landscapes, and Edinburgh, a charming historical capital full of activities. I connected the two by train, an excellent way to enjoy the splendors of the Highlands. This is the subject of the second article: The Isle of Skye, a train through the heart of the Highlands and Edinburgh: the best of Scotland

For the return to Paris, I opted for a train + ferry combination, via Newcastle and Amsterdam. An unusual itinerary that almost gave me the impression of going on a cruise. This is the third and final article in this series: Return from Scotland to Paris via Amsterdam by train and ferry: an unique journey

In this last article, I also give you practical advice and links to organize your trip.

Paris 12:02 PM — London 1:30 PM with Eurostar

I will use two successive railway companies to travel from Paris to Scotland by train: Eurostar to London and the Caledonian Sleeper, a night train to Fort William in the depths of Scotland.

A Journey with the most Comfortable Options

In both cases, I chose the most comfortable travel option. The price is a bit higher, but I wanted to see if it’s worth the travel experience.

To start, I treat myself to a trip in Eurostar Premier. This is the highest-end option that the Eurostar railway company offers.

Quick Border Crossing at Gare Du Nord Thanks to an Efficient Fast-Track

It’s 11 AM, and my departure for London begins at Gare du Nord, in a space dedicated to Eurostar passengers. Unlike classic trains in continental Europe, boarding involves several steps, as you must go through the station’s border controls.

Thanks to an agreement between France and the United Kingdom, the formalities—police and customs—are centralized before departure, which simplifies arrival at the destination. Since April 1st, European travelers must also obtain an electronic authorization (ETA), available online or on mobile. This is a new, not very friendly development following Brexit!

Another specificity of this journey: for safety reasons, luggage is scanned, as at the airport, due to the passage under the Channel.

Traveling on Eurostar Premier, I enjoy a quick fast-track and an elegant waiting lounge. Depending on the crowds, this fluidity can save up to an hour—a real plus for such a short journey.

The Eurostar Lounge in all Parisian Elegance

Having completed my formalities in no time, I can relax in the lounge while waiting for my train’s departure scheduled at 12:02 PM. The pleasure of the journey truly begins!

The Eurostar lounge in Paris is undoubtedly and currently the best in Europe for rail transport. With its ceiling moldings and herringbone parquet flooring, one could believe they’re in a beautifully renovated Haussmann apartment.

The different spaces are very well designed, whether for isolating oneself, gathering in small groups, or enjoying a moment of refreshment. The services are up to par, with a wide range of drinks and snacks that vary according to the time of day.

From the windows, I have a superb view of the 19th-century glass roof of Gare du Nord and, on the street side, of Paris’s Haussmann buildings

Eurostar had the good idea to maintain an offer of paper magazines and newspapers, like in the old days. I make my selection for the journey.

A Smooth and Well-Orchestrated Boarding

A discreet announcement informs me that my train is ready for departure.

Before going down to the platform, I cross through the waiting area for other travel classes. It’s rather pleasant, with its duty-free shops evoking an airport atmosphere. In the middle of the day in March, it’s not crowded, and each traveler seems able to find a place to sit while waiting for their train. But I wonder if the area isn’t undersized during peak hours or at the start of holidays. This is the challenge rail carriers face: departing from a historic station in the heart of the city, where space isn’t infinitely expandable.

I reach the platform via a long moving walkway. The Eurostar train seems endless with its 400 meters in length. Unlike TGVs, which are made up of two trainsets, the Eurostar always maintains this length, imposed by the crossing of the Channel Tunnel. In case of an emergency, this allows passengers to reach the emergency exits, regularly spaced under the tunnel.

I am greeted on the platform by a steward, who checks my ticket and indicates where my seat is located.

Seat 61: a Simple Number Become Legend

By chance, during my booking, I was assigned seat 61. This seat has become mythical thanks to Mark Smith, a famous rail travel blogger who created Seat61.com. It may not be the prettiest site, but it is very comprehensive and a reference today on all travel possibilities worldwide. When I want to go somewhere by train, my first reflex is to consult it.

And why seat 61? As Mark himself explains, it’s his favorite seat on the Eurostar, the one he systematically chooses, and which has become the name of his blog: The Man in Seat 61.

When the Train Adopts Aviation Codes

I’m surprised to find that an Eurostar journey adopts many codes from air transport. My experience at the station reminded me of security checks and airport lounges.

Boarding my train, I feel like I’m embarking on a rail plane. Indeed, the materials used for the walls are similar to those found in Airbus planes, and the slightly curved ceiling reinforces the impression of a pressurized tube. Between two cars, I also find the same galleys as in airplanes, where meals are prepared!

My seat, in beige-gray tones, is very enveloping and comfortable, even if I imagine some travelers might find it a bit too firm. Personally, that’s not the case for me.

On-board Service: Champagne and Dishes Signed by Chef Jeremy Chan

It’s lunchtime, and the service begins. The steward comes to bring us a menu, accompanied by appetizer snacks. Then, a hostess, just behind, offers us a drink. I take a glass of champagne to celebrate this journey while watching the gently rolling Picardy countryside pass by at 320 km/h.

The meal is then served in two stages. First, I am given a tray with the starter, cheese, and dessert. Then, a little later, the steward presents me with a choice between one hot dish and two cold dishes. Drinks, including wine, are offered freely, and the crew is present and helpful.

I enjoy the meal, but the choices of chef Jeremy Chan, a Briton, can be surprising with their original combinations of flavors and textures, such as, in my case, salmon accompanied by a cauliflower gratin. In my opinion, it would be preferable to offer more classic dishes when options are limited and the clientele is very international and diverse.

Exploring Eurostar: From First Class to Standard

After my meal, I go for a walk to visit my train. I pass through the “Eurostar Plus” class, which offers exactly the same comfort as the “Eurostar Premier” class, with its comfortable seats. The difference lies in the fact that the meal is simpler — although looking at it, it seems quite adequate to me — and at the station, you don’t benefit from fast-track access or lounge access. However, the price is significantly more affordable.

I then arrive in the “Eurostar Standard” class carriages, which is the equivalent of second class. The seats are arranged in rows of 2+2, instead of 2+1, and with less spacing. The comfort remains appreciable, and the blue color is more cheerful than the beige-gray of the ‘Eurostar Plus’ and ‘Eurostar Premier’ classes.

In the center of the train are two bar cars, very similar to those found in French TGVs. At mealtime, it’s pretty busy. The food and drink offerings seem more inspired by Great Britain than by France, which will please some, and less so others.

After the second bar car, the train is perfectly symmetrical to its tail. So, I don’t continue my visit and return to my seat in the lead car.

Crossing the Channel Tunnel: a Technical and Symbolic Feat

Our Eurostar slows down just before arriving at Calais, to plunge into the famous Channel Tunnel. It has become so commonplace today that no announcement is made to warn passengers. This is a shame, as it is one of the most important civil engineering achievements of the 20th century. The American Society of Civil Engineers has even classified it among the seven wonders of the modern world!

At 50.5 km long, including 37.9 km under the sea, the tunnel is part of the prestigious club of the ten longest in the world. Beyond the technical feat, I am especially sensitive to the symbolic significance of this terrestrial geographical union between France and Great Britain. It takes us 35 minutes to cross it, at a reduced speed for safety reasons.

Just before entering the tunnel, I catch a glimpse of the shuttles that transport cars and trucks under the Channel.

Kent Crossed at High Speed

Upon exiting the tunnel, we travel on the only high-speed railway line in the United Kingdom. The train resumes a speed of 300 km/h.

We cross a viaduct over the Medway River, then a tunnel under the Thames.

The journey is quick: about 35 minutes between the tunnel and St Pancras station in London. After a short two-and-a-half-hour trip, we arrive at the platform at 1:30 PM, perfectly on time.

An Afternoon in London

I could have taken a late afternoon Eurostar for my connection with the Caledonian Sleeper. Indeed, the two companies serve St Pancras and Euston stations, which are very close to each other.

The Advantages of a Long Connection

I prefer to plan generously. On one hand, I travel more relaxed without having to worry about a possible train delay, and on the other hand, it gives me the opportunity to treat myself to a stroll in London.

St Pancras Station: the most Beautiful in London

Saint Pancras is undoubtedly the most beautiful station in London, with its flamboyant Victorian Gothic style. As I get off the train, I cast an admiring glance at the superb glass roof and metal beams of the Barlow Hall. A monumental statue representing a kissing couple perfectly embodies the station’s role as a meeting point for travelers.

The next part of my journey begins at Euston station, located a 500m walk from Saint Pancras. I pass by the spectacular Renaissance Hotel with its Gothic facade. It’s not a cheap address: expect to pay at least 300 to 400 GBP per night. But for an exceptional journey between the Continent and Scotland, it might be worth staying there for a night or two between trains.

An Afternoon in London: Strolling along the Thames

As I have the whole afternoon before my train scheduled at 9:15 PM, I leave my bag at the luggage storage and go for a walk.

I choose to return to the Thames to retrace a river walk that I had already enjoyed a year earlier.

I recount this experience in another article titled: “London by boat and on foot, along the river Thames”.

London 9:15 PM — Fort William 10 AM the Next Day with Caledonian Sleeper

The second part of my journey is with the Caledonian Sleeper company. I have planned to travel overnight in a sleeper car with a private shower and toilet: the “Club En-suite,” the top-tier option.

Euston Station is not beautiful. After the old Victorian-style station was ruthlessly destroyed, it was rebuilt in the 1960s with a massive and graceless appearance.

Photo credit (left): Ben Brooksbank – Old Euston station hall 1960

Fortunately, I have the option to go directly to the Caledonian Sleeper lounge while waiting for my train.

Finding the Caledonian Sleeper Lounge: as Secret as Harry Potter’s Platform 9 3/4 !

Despite the signage, accessing the Caledonian Sleeper lounge is difficult. I even feel like I would be in a Harry Potter movie, searching for Platform 9 ¾, which is reserved for wizards!

In reality, I have to go down a ramp towards Platform 1, in an environment that gives the strange impression of entering the freight area of the station. Large posters, adorned with beautiful photos of Scotland, seem to indicate that I’m on the right track, but I’m not entirely convinced.

Luckily, I come across a Caledonian Sleeper agent, who leads me directly to the lounge.

I’m warmly welcomed, and I’m already given the magnetic card that will later give me access to my compartment on board the train.

The lounge isn’t huge, but it’s simple and comfortable. Non-alcoholic drinks are offered, and it’s possible to dine there while waiting for the train to depart. The menu is the same as the one provided in the dining car. Even though I’m a bit hungry, I prefer to wait: the prospect of dining on the train appeals to me more!

On the company’s website, I had seen that it was possible to take a shower on board the train, but it seems more comfortable to take one in the lounge. This is what I do, and later I won’t regret it.

The Caledonian Sleeper: a Recent Train with a Beautiful Livery

The train, with its blue-green livery, is magnificent. The cars are recent, received between 2016 and 2018.

Our train is bound for the Highlands. Later in the night, it will be separated into three branches at Edinburgh station, heading to Fort William, Aberdeen, and Inverness. As a result, at London station, with its 16 cars, the train length is endless.

Agents welcome us on the platform to guide us to our car. Throughout my journey, I will be pleasantly surprised by the warmth and kindness of the Caledonian Sleeper staff, who seem happy to work for this company.

My Sleeping Compartment: between Cozy Comfort and Limited Space

As I board my car, I’m surprised by its narrowness: the corridor is barely more than 45 cm wide! My compartment is cozy, but cramped. The bed is only 65 cm wide and 180 cm long. Tall or corpulent people should abstain! Although traveling alone, the cabin hasn’t been converted, and the presence of two bunk beds accentuates this feeling of confinement. The non-removable ladder complicates access a bit. Just in front of the window, I have a sink.

This narrowness is mainly explained by the reduced gauge of British trains, which are narrower than those on the European continent, a historical legacy.

Fortunately, the chosen materials and colors bring a warm and pleasant atmosphere to my compartment.

On the side, behind a door, I have access to a private toilet and shower. It’s an absolute comfort, because I’ve always found it unpleasant to get up in the middle of the night to go to the toilet at the end of the corridor. However, I don’t regret having taken my shower in the lounge, because on board, it’s installed right above the toilet, which inevitably gets soaked after use.

Caledonian Sleeper offers two other options for traveling in a sleeper car. First, the “Caledonian Double En-suite”, which features a 142.5 cm wide double bed instead of bunk beds. This is a fairly unique configuration in night trains. Then, the “Classic Room”, identical to my cabin, but without a private bathroom.

Dinner on Board: a Convivial Experience in the Caledonian Sleeper’s Dining Car

In the lounge, I was advised to go to the dining car as soon as the train departed to ensure I got a seat, as travelers sometimes swarm it.

The car is very pleasant, with its woody tones accented with touches of blue and orange. The lighting is well thought out, thanks to indirect lights that create a warm atmosphere. Sitting either around tables or on stools lined up along a counter is possible. That’s where I choose to sit, to watch the nocturnal landscape go by—the only downside: the discomfort of the stools, just like that of the seats. In prioritizing aesthetics and design too much, the designers sacrificed comfort.

For dinner, I hesitate between haggis, the Scottish specialty — a sheep’s stomach stuffed with a minced meat mixture — and mac and cheese, a very popular cheddar macaroni dish among our British neighbors. I choose the latter, accompanied by a glass of red wine. At 9 PM, I’m almost alone at the table.

The other travelers are chatting or playing cards, with a glass of beer or whisky. The atmosphere is cheerful because, contrary to the usual British reserve, each group of passengers doesn’t hesitate to start a conversation with their neighbors. It’s somewhat convivial.

A Peaceful Night Aboard the Caledonian Sleeper

Around 11 PM, I decide to return to my cabin, as the day, though very pleasant, has been long.

I slip voluptuously under the duvet, like at home! The sleeper car is very quiet: I only notice 55 decibels, compared to the usual 70 to 75.

However, a night light remains on with a very bright light. But I always travel with a strip of duct tape, which allows me to remedy this type of situation! I quickly find the desired darkness.

I fall asleep immediately, lulled by the movements of the train.

Surprisingly, around 5 AM, I wake up at Edinburgh station due to the train’s immobility. The train stays there for about an hour, the time to separate the cars heading to Inverness and Aberdeen. I fall back asleep easily because, despite the narrowness of the bed, the bedding is of excellent quality.

Spectacular Awakening on the West Highland Line: the Wild Beauty of Scotland

Of all the destinations served by the Caledonian Sleeper, I selected Fort William because the journey’s end takes one of the most beautiful railway lines in Europe: the famous West Highland Line. And I’m glad I made this choice!

My favorite moment when traveling on a night train is opening my curtain while lazily lying in my bed, to discover an entirely new landscape.

It’s around 7 am, and I can see the sun rising over a landscape of lakes and mountains. It’s pure bliss!

I head to the dining car for breakfast. With the train’s reconfiguration in Edinburgh, it’s now located opposite from where it was the night before. This meal is included in the ticket price: it’s good, but I find it a bit frugal.

I take the opportunity to visit the seated carriage, the most economical option on the Caledonian Sleeper. Judging by the tired faces, I doubt its occupants slept well!

Nature still retains a wintry look, with even some snow-capped mountains. Until arrival, I remain glued to the window, eyes wide open, amazed by these wild, almost deserted, austere, but sublime landscapes. Rivers, lochs, and small stations lost in nature pass by for my greatest pleasure. This would be if there were only one reason to take this train.

Shortly before arrival, we skirt around Ben Nevis, the highest point in the British Isles at 1,345 meters in altitude.

The Caledonian Sleeper enters the tiny Fort William station at 10 am sharp. The Parisian and London bustle from the day before already seems far away.

From Fort William to the Isle of Skye by Train, Ferry, Bus and Hitchhiking !

My final destination is Portree, the largest town on the famous Isle of Skye. But for the last part of my journey, I’ll have to take a train, a ferry, a bus, and finally, hitchhike! Fortunately, I have time, and the landscapes in Scotland are magnificent.

While waiting for my train connection to Mallaig, I benefit from the Caledonian Sleeper lounge. It’s small, but very pleasant. I also take the opportunity to do a quick tour of the main street in the small town of Fort William.

Fort William – Mallaig by Train with Scotrail

I leave Fort William at 12:18 pm with a regional train from the ScotRail company.

Unfortunately, taking photos will be a bit tricky: the windows aren’t as clean as those of the Caledonian Sleeper. The journey remains magnificent, with a succession of lakes, rivers, mountains and some glimpses of the sea.

Halfway through, we cross the Glenfinnan viaduct, made famous by the Harry Potter saga, as the Hogwarts Express used it to reach the school of wizardry. To immerse yourself in the series’ atmosphere, between April and October, you can travel on board the Jacobite train, pulled by a superb steam locomotive.

At 1:40 pm, we arrive at the small port of Mallaig, which seems frozen in torpor. While waiting for my ferry, I climb a hill overlooking the village to enjoy a nice view of the surroundings.

Mallaig – Armadale by Ferry

At 4:10 pm, I board a ferry to cross the strait that separates us from the Isle of Skye in half an hour. The boat is tiny — like many things in the UK! — and can accommodate barely a dozen vehicles.

Armadale – Broadford by Bus

The ferry drops me off at the small port of Armadale. From there, I continue by bus to Broadford, where a more than two-hour connection with another bus awaits me to my final destination: Portree. There are only five passengers on board, and I really feel like I’m venturing to the end of the world.

Broadford – Portree Hitchhiking: Terminus!

I try hitchhiking to avoid waiting for the next bus in Broadford — as I sometimes did in my youth! And it works: after only fifteen minutes of waiting by the roadside, with my brightest smile, an island resident picks me up and drives me to Portree in about half an hour.

From Paris to the Isle of Skye: 30 Hours of Railway Pleasure !

It took me 30 hours to get from Paris to the Isle of Skye. This might seem long, but it didn’t feel that way to me, as the journey was very comfortable, both on the Eurostar and the Caledonian Sleeper.

Paying more for more Comfort: It’s Worth it!

I appreciated access to the lounges, which allowed me to wait comfortably for my different trains. I could have my meals on board and spend an excellent night. I arrived rested, with the real feeling of having traveled, not just being transported, as is often the case when flying.

If you have preconceptions about the discomfort of night trains, remembering your old journeys in second-class sleepers, forget them! You sleep very well on board the Caledonian Sleeper, and it’s currently the most pleasant way to get to Scotland from Paris.

Waking up in Scotland with Exceptional Landscapes

Moreover, the Scottish landscapes observed from my two trains—between waking up and Mallaig via Fort William—were exceptional. The ferry crossing was also enjoyable, and I spent time on deck, breathing in the invigorating sea air.

My stops in London, Fort William, and Mallaig were opportunities to walk around and make some discoveries.

The only downside concerns the very end of the journey, between Armadale and Portree, by bus and then hitchhiking, which turned out to be a bit tedious. The Isle of Skye is not very suitable for a visit without a car, as the public transport network is sparse. For more comfort, I could have rented a car right from the port of Armadale.

After a good night at the hotel, I’m ready to visit the Isle of Skye. This will be the subject of my next article.