Béziers – Clermont-Ferrand – Paris by train via the Ligne des Causses

The Ligne des Causses: A Spectacular Crossing of the Massif Central

I wanted to retrace the route of the train known as "L'Aubrac", which ran from Béziers to Paris via Clermont-Ferrand between 1982 and 2007. Between Béziers and Neussargues, it cuts through the most breathtaking scenery of the Massif Central, crosses dizzying viaducts, and opens up remote territories that the railway once helped connect to the world. This is the Ligne des Causses, with roots stretching back to the 19th century.

I did part of this trip with a friend, Fred, author of the blog "The roads not traveled". We share the same passion for railways and jumped at the opportunity to travel this line together before each sharing our experience, through our own personal lens.

The much-missed direct Béziers–Paris Aubrac train

Had we taken this trip back in 2007, we would have travelled from Béziers to Paris in one single journey aboard the famous Aubrac. The schedule would have been roughly similar—departing Béziers at 9:10 AM, arriving at Paris-Gare de Lyon at 7:41 PM—but the itinerary was operated by a comfortable Corail train, with a choice between First and Second class, and above all without a single connection. Back then, SNCF managed the logistics by orchestrating locomotive changes at Neussargues and then Clermont-Ferrand, essential for tackling the non-electrified section.

Today, the experience is completely different: for the very same journey, you now have to take three successive trains. The Aubrac is only marketed from Béziers to Clermont-Ferrand as a single Intercités service, but it requires a train change at Neussargues. Once in Clermont-Ferrand, you have to switch trains once more to reach the capital.

Here is the story of this Béziers–Paris journey in two stages:

• From Béziers to Clermont-Ferrand: An incredible diversity of landscapes
• From Clermont-Ferrand to Paris: A line with a controversial reputation

Naturally, at the end of the article, I'll share a few practical tips to help you plan your own journey.

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The Ligne des Causses: A History Dating Back to the 19th Century

To understand the origins of this line, you have to go back to the 19th century during the Second Empire. At the time, SNCF, the French national railway company, didn't exist, and major private railway companies divided up the French network under territorial concessions.

The Compagnie des chemins de fer du Midi had been granted the concession to serve the Southwest, from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. In 1858, an independent company opened the line from Béziers to Graissessac to move production from this coal basin, renowned for the high quality of its coal. Acquired in 1865 by the Compagnie du Midi, this mining route became the springboard for a far more ambitious project.

The Languedoc wine trade: The origins of the Ligne des Causses

During the same era, the substantial Languedoc wine freight heading toward the capital was the exclusive domain of the prestigious Compagnie du Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée (PLM). The PLM controlled the Southeast via its flagship Paris–Lyon–Marseille artery, as well as the Cévennes line connecting Nîmes to Clermont-Ferrand straight across the Massif Central.

Since freight rates were closely tied to distance travelled, whichever company offered the shortest route to Paris naturally enjoyed a serious competitive edge.

That is how the executives of the Midi company came up with the idea of extending the line north across the Causses: by reaching Neussargues, they carved out a more direct artery toward the capital while maximizing revenue on their own network. At Neussargues, the Compagnie du Paris-Orléans (PO) then took over hauling the wine trains all the way to Paris.

The line was built in successive sections between 1858 and 1888. Due to the exceptionally rugged terrain, engineers had to tackle huge technical challenges, constructing a succession of bold tunnels and viaducts. While the railway helped open up the Massif Central, the ambition of squeezing out the PLM was never fully realized: the route's punishing gradients severely restricted train loads.

Even today, the line survives, but its future remains precarious. While the French state and local authorities have invested millions of euros in recent years to renovate the most degraded sections, this effort may not be enough to guarantee its long-term survival.

Béziers – Clermont-Ferrand: An incredible diversity of landscapes

With the Aubrac train departing at 9:32 AM, we decided to arrive in Béziers the night before to sleep there. The trip to Clermont-Ferrand takes 6 hours and 40 minutes, covering 386 km (240 miles) with an arrival scheduled for 4:11 PM.

The elevation profile of the Ligne des Causses is remarkable. We set out from Béziers, right at sea level, and climb to an altitude of 1,050 metres on the Aubrac plateau. As shown by the 19th-century engineering diagrams, the track profile is a jagged saw-tooth, featuring several climbs—some very steep—followed by equally dramatic descents.

Fred and I were thrilled to finally discover what it actually looked like!

Source: L'épopée de la ligne des Causses

Béziers: An old town centre that proved a delightful surprise

I had always pictured the city as not particularly appealing. How wrong I was!

In fact, exploring it left me with a very positive impression. Its historic centre is well preserved, boasting beautiful houses and a pleasant pedestrian district.

I even regretted not arriving earlier to have more time to explore. It just goes to show: don't let prejudices get in the way, and never hesitate to visit places with mixed reputations to make up your own mind. Reality is often far more interesting.

Béziers station: A former rail junction that lost its prominence

In the morning, we head to Béziers station. It is late September, and the forecast for our entire trip looks good: a mix of sun and clouds, and above all, no rain.

The station building is typical of small provincial French towns.

Our trainset is already waiting at the platform. It is a modest regional train that has been given the Intercités branding, usually reserved for mainline French routes not served by the TGV.

On board, it's Second class only, with comfort suited more to short commuter hops than a six-hour journey. There is no catering service on board and no Wi-Fi. You're far better off planning ahead and buying food and drinks before setting off to travel comfortably. Which is exactly what we did.

Fortunately, there are very few passengers on board, giving us plenty of space with four seats just for the two of us. A crucial detail for travel bloggers like us: the windows are huge and, above all, spotlessly clean. That meant we could fully enjoy the ride and take photos in great conditions!

Setting off through Mediterranean landscapes

Ten minutes behind schedule, our electric multiple unit pulls out and gathers speed across the plains of Languedoc, after waiting for connecting passengers. In under half an hour, we reach Bédarieux, the first major station.

Stepping onto the platform, I am struck by the vast train shed spanning the station. It was built in 1903, back when Bédarieux was a bustling industrial hub with coal mines, tanneries, textile mills, and tile factories that relied on the railway to move their goods. Today, the station is practically deserted, with just a handful of passengers boarding and alighting from our train.

Leaving Bédarieux, the train runs alongside a majestic abandoned stone viaduct. A relic from the early days of Languedoc rail transport, it originally carried coal from Graissessac before the final alignment of the Ligne des Causses bypassed the town to the west.

Outside the window, rolling vineyards drift past, looking utterly charming. Since the days of cheap table wine, the Languedoc has reduced its yields to focus on quality.

Towards the limestone cliffs and deep gorges of the Causses

Our train climbs boldly into the rugged heights of the Haut-Languedoc. The landscape transforms, becoming markedly rougher and more dramatic.

The stops roll by, with place names evoking Occitanie and southern French terroir: Le Bousquet-d’Orb, Saint-Rome-de-Cernon, Saint-Georges-de-Luzençon, Tournemire, Roquefort. Yet what strikes me most is a palpable sense of decline. The stations all look more or less derelict. In many spots, the tracks are even overgrown with weeds and vegetation.

The stop at Tournemire – Roquefort brings to mind the famous sheep's milk cheese. A bit strong for my taste, but adored by food lovers everywhere!

We now tackle an initial 33‰ (3.3%) gradient up towards the Col du Poirier pass, which is truly remarkable for conventional rail transport. Thanks to its lightweight build and powered axles distributed along the entire trainset, our electric multiple unit is ideally suited to this kind of line.

Back when locomotive-hauled Corail trains ran here, they often had to pair two engines together to negotiate these dizzying inclines safely.

We are now deep in the Grands Causses, with their signature limestone cliff scenery. Up above, we catch glimpses of the Larzac plateau.

Unlike a high-speed TGV line that slices through the topography with towering engineering structures to maintain a straight line, the Ligne des Causses weaves along a narrow valley, hugging its every twist and turn. Retaining walls, short tunnels, and viaducts follow one right after another.

Millau and its famous viaduct

After the Col du Poirier, we descend towards the town of Millau into a wider, greener valley. To our right, we get splendid views of the famous Millau Viaduct. Stretching 2,460 metres long with its roadway soaring 270 metres above the Tarn River, it is an awe-inspiring sight. I especially admire its clean elegance and lightness.

Yet this engineering marvel also highlights a shift in transport policy that hasn't favoured the railways. The A75 motorway for which it was built greatly smoothed road travel between Clermont-Ferrand and Béziers, intensifying road competition at the expense of the train.

Shortly after, we pull into Millau. Despite its modest size—home to some 22,000 residents—it is the second most populous town in Aveyron and a key stop along the Ligne des Causses. It's the first station since our departure that looks well-maintained, with noticeable passenger traffic getting on and off.

We continue our journey through valleys revealing breathtaking vistas—the prelude to one of the most demanding climbs on the route.

Towards the open landscapes and high pastures of the Aubrac

Next, between Aguessac and Engayresque, we tackle a 476-metre gain in elevation across just 15 kilometres! This steep profile explains why the Compagnie du Midi electrified the line as early as the 1930s. In the steam era, the load that locomotives could haul was quickly limited, whereas electric traction delivered far superior performance.

We pass Sévérac with its castle towering over a medieval town. Even though our train travels at a leisurely pace, I feel a pang of frustration at not being able to hop off and discover the fascinating sights we pass through. But doing justice to this route would have taken at least a week, not a single day! Especially since the Aubrac train runs just once a day. Perhaps an idea for a future holiday?

Gradually, the scenery shifts. The Mediterranean feel has completely vanished, and we are now well inside the heart of the Massif Central. The valleys widen, the peaks soften into rounded hills, and the flora becomes typical of colder high-altitude regions. Slate roofs have replaced the red terracotta tiles.

We stop at Campagnac – Saint-Geniez at 12:21 PM. The conductor mentions to us—alas, too late—that had we asked him upon leaving Béziers, he could have arranged for a meal prepared by the restaurant at Hôtel Rodier to be delivered to us right at this station. A real pity, as we had to make do with packaged salads bought at the Monoprix in Béziers.

We push on towards Marvejols across the Gévaudan region. I peer out the window, half-hoping to spot the legendary beast that terrorized women and children during the reign of Louis XV! But it must have stayed hidden in the dense forests through which we pass.

We begin our third and final major climb to reach the highest point of our journey on the Aubrac plateau in Lozère. At Aumont-Aubrac station, we stand at an altitude of 1,041 metres, where snow blankets the landscape in winter. The Mediterranean mildness of Languedoc feels like a distant memory.

Farmland gives way to woodland and sweeping high-altitude pastures dotted with herds of cattle or sheep and a few stone shepherds' huts.

It is late summer 2026, and the grass is bleached yellow after multiple heatwaves and a prolonged drought across France.

Saint-Chély-d’Apcher and the line's industrial dimension

After Millau, Saint-Chély-d’Apcher, which we reach at 1:42 PM, is our second major stop. Dozens of youngsters, dressed in black and white uniforms, alight from the train to head straight to classes at the renowned hospitality school located directly opposite the station.

The small town is also known for its ArcelorMittal steel plant, specializing in high-end electrical steels used mainly in the automotive industry. I know it well, since my partner worked for the company for over 30 years and had to visit on multiple occasions!

This plant plays a vital role in keeping the Ligne des Causses alive: 100% of its steel coil supplies are delivered by rail, primarily from Fos-sur-Mer. In a testament to how crucial this traffic is for the route, Jean Castex, the current CEO of SNCF, took the time to visit the plant in April 2026.

This stop at Saint-Chély-d’Apcher is reassuring, proving there are still genuine reasons for optimism regarding the future of the Ligne des Causses. It still serves a clear economic purpose.

Another surprise awaits us: we spot two 1960s railcars parked at the platform, restored by the association "Autorail Limousin". A true blast from the past, featuring rolling stock that criss-crossed the lines of the Massif Central for decades.

The Garabit Viaduct: A Masterpiece by Gustave Eiffel

Our train sets off again, but very few passengers remain on board for the run to its final destination: Neussargues.

A major geographic hurdle looms ahead: the deep gorge of the Truyère. The conductor makes an announcement explaining that we will cross it via the Garabit Viaduct, designed by Léon Boyer and built by Gustave Eiffel.

Completed in 1884, this ambitious metallic structure—565 metres long and towering 122 metres above the Truyère—was considered the highest railway viaduct in the world at the time.

The train slows down, as if paying its respects to this grand old dame of iron latticework. Yet once we are on it, you can hardly see the structure itself. Below, the Truyère forms a vast reservoir created by the Grandval Dam—a body of water sitting exceptionally low today, the result of repeated droughts.

You'd really need to get off the train and step back from a distance to appreciate the viaduct in all its glory!

Source: Amirani1746

We next stop in the Cantal department at Saint-Flour. From a distance, I can make out Saint-Pierre Cathedral, constructed from black volcanic basalt typical of the Auvergne region. Spread out beneath its base lies the medieval upper town.

End of the overhead wires: Switching to diesel in Neussargues

At 2:39 PM, we arrive in Neussargues, the terminus of our train.

Since the line is not electrified past Neussargues, our red regional railcar from the Occitanie region cannot go any further. It is therefore aboard a blue diesel railcar from the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region that we continue towards Clermont-Ferrand.

Fewer than twenty passengers transfer with us. The sprawling web of tracks and the generous size of the station still bear witness to a time when Neussargues was a strategic railway junction.

The final stretch of the Aubrac train's route is less dramatic. We wind through the floor of the Alagnon valley, following the meandering river.

Before Issoire, the landscape flattens into agricultural plains. Fatigue catches up with us, and we both doze off for a well-deserved power nap.

Clermont-Ferrand: Terminus of Intercités 15940

4:11 PM — The train has made up its ten-minute delay and pulls into the station right on time.

Built between 1935 and 1945, the station features a stripped-down, somewhat austere modernist style. It reminds me a bit of the post-war architecture in Le Havre.

Stepping outside, I notice we are on Avenue de l'Union Soviétique! Its name reflects the city's gratitude towards one of the Allied powers that helped win World War II, rather than any tribute to a controversial regime.

This is where Fred and I part ways. He continues towards Montluçon to visit family, while I head back to Paris.

From Clermont-Ferrand to Paris: A line with a controversial reputation

I could have taken the 4:30 PM train to get to Paris sooner, but I thought a twenty-minute window made the risk of missing my connection far too high. To avoid any unnecessary stress, I opted to book a seat on the 5:30 PM service instead.

My brief layover in the capital of Auvergne between two trains

A nice little bonus: I had an hour and fifteen minutes for a quick stroll through Clermont-Ferrand, a city I had never visited before.

I was pleasantly surprised by the lively, youthful vibe of the city, driven by its vibrant university community.

While the outer suburbs look heavily industrial with rather uninspiring residential blocks, the historic centre surrounding the Cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption is another story entirely. Unfortunately, it was undergoing restoration, and large white tarpaulins prevented me from admiring it fully. The most stunning sight is the view from its forecourt: looking down a long, sloping medieval street, you can see the Auvergne volcanoes in the distance, with the Puy de Dôme instantly recognizable by its telecom tower.

I finished my brief tour at Place de Jaude, the commercial heart of the city. My eyes were drawn to the church of Saint-Pierre-des-Minimes with its pitch-black facade. Seeing it backlit against the sky gave it an almost unreal, mysterious presence.

I soon had to make my way back to the station through winding medieval streets lined with buildings of dark Volvic stone and warm ochre plaster. The visual effect was striking.

The brief glimpse I had of Clermont-Ferrand certainly left me wanting to come back for a longer stay.

Clermont-Ferrand – Paris: An unloved line

Passengers on the Clermont-Ferrand route regularly complain about the ageing rolling stock, which is showing its years despite several refits. Added to this are frequent delays and cancellations—the direct outcome of decades of underinvestment in the line's infrastructure.

Following several high-profile incidents—such as the one on 19 January 2024, when a train arrived over seven hours late after being stranded for hours without power or heating—politicians finally stepped in.

Brand-new trains, dubbed "Oxygène", were ordered back in 2019. Originally expected in 2024, their rollout has been repeatedly postponed. Service entry is now slated for 2027 on the Paris–Clermont-Ferrand line.

Catch-up infrastructure works have also been launched to bring the line up to standard and put an end to decades of neglect.

Yet the overarching feeling remains one of a perpetual lag. It took until 1990 for the line to finally be electrified—some 40 years after Paris–Lyon!

Despite these efforts, local commuters still lament a journey time that feels excessive in the high-speed era. And no major improvements to shorten travel times are in sight for the near or medium term.

Clermont-Ferrand – Paris trains dating back to the 1970s and 1980s

The passenger carriages currently in service were built 40 to 50 years ago. These are the famous Corail cars, which I remember vividly from their debut!

At the time, they represented a genuine revolution in rail comfort. Their white livery accented by an anthracite stripe, corail-orange doors, and vibrant orange seating in Second class or bright red in First brought a breath of modernity that contrasted sharply with the dark green, brown-interiored trains of earlier decades.

Air conditioning was a groundbreaking novelty back then, previously reserved for luxurious Trans-Europ-Express trains like Le Mistral between Paris and Marseille. The suspension and soundproofing also marked an impressive qualitative leap forward.

The seats were far more comfortable, and above all, traditional enclosed compartments made way for large, open-plan coaches split by a central aisle, modelled on airline cabins. This layout, which has become standard today, offered greater privacy as well as a fold-down tray table on the back of each seat.

I immediately fell in love with these trains, which ruled the French rail network before the rise of the TGV. But fifty years on, it's easy to see why modern passengers expect something else!

My journey: A pleasant, slightly vintage experience

It was therefore with a blend of nostalgia for that era—and a slight touch of apprehension—that I stepped aboard my train.

I was travelling in First class, and I must say it was a pleasant surprise. The carriage retained none of the original Corail interior and felt refreshingly modern. The cream walls blended nicely with the dark grey of the seats, which were exceptionally comfortable. I also liked how the central aisle curved gently, breaking up the monotonous bowling-alley feel.

Second class looked equally comfortable, and as a nice touch, SNCF had even included a dedicated children's play area in the middle of the train.

From Clermont-Ferrand to Paris, our train called first at Riom-Châtel-Guyon, Vichy, Moulins-sur-Allier, and finally Nevers. All of these towns boast rich historical heritage and would have been well worth a stopover.

After the dramatic scenery of the Ligne des Causses, the view from the window was rather uninspiring, looking out over flat agricultural plains. I made the most of it by reading and browsing on my tablet via 4G rather than the spotty on-board Wi-Fi.

During the journey, a trolley service came through offering snacks and drinks for purchase.

The 3.5-hour journey passed quite quickly and in total comfort.

My only slight complaint was the underwhelming air conditioning, and I can easily see why SNCF opted to cancel certain Intercités services during severe heatwaves.

Defying its bad reputation, my train arrived right on the dot at 8:57 PM at the least well-known of the Parisian termini: Bercy. In the late 1970s, it was designed to handle motorail sleeper trains (trains-autos-couchettes). Now that those are gone, it serves conventional mainline trains and regional TER services heading towards Burgundy and Auvergne. Locals from Auvergne aren't fond of this station; it lacks the prestige of Gare de Lyon and isn't nearly as well connected to the Paris Métro and RER networks. Métro lines 6 and 14 are slightly out of the way, requiring a walk of around 300 metres.

I really enjoyed my journey, which went off without a hitch and had an undeniable vintage charm! That said, it's hard to draw definitive conclusions from just one single experience.

Béziers – Paris via the Ligne des Causses: For how much longer?

Travelling from Béziers to Paris via the Ligne des Causses is a one-of-a-kind railway journey that I wholeheartedly recommend. Beyond the fabulous landscapes crossed along the Béziers–Neussargues section, I found the history of this line truly captivating.

Organizing the trip is straightforward, though you have to be ready to ride three different trains, including two single-class regional trains with seating comfort not ideally designed for a long multi-hour journey.

Another account of the Ligne des Causses by the author of "The roads not traveled"

My friend Fred, who joined me from Béziers to Clermont-Ferrand, also penned an account of our journey along the Ligne des Causses. I encourage you to read it, as it complements my own post nicely: "Beziers to Neussargues by Train: Along France’s Ligne des Causses ".

The uncertain future of the Ligne des Causses

Given its age and wear, the Ligne des Causses requires major renovation work. However, in light of the low passenger numbers and high budgets involved, this route cannot remain financially viable without public subsidies. Yet it remains vital for connecting isolated, vulnerable rural communities.

Since 2024, after drawn-out negotiations between SNCF Réseau, the Occitanie and Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes regions, and the French state, several stretches have been renovated. But what will happen over the longer term?

What's more, whenever major engineering works take place, service interruptions drag on for weeks or even months. Passengers adapt by finding other ways to travel, and not all of them return to the rails. My fear is that one day, over-indebted regional councils or the state will simply pull the plug on future funding.

So, you get the message: don't wait to travel the Ligne des Causses! You won't regret it, as the scenery along this route is truly unmatched.

Practical tips for your journey from Béziers to Paris via the Ligne des Causses (or vice-versa)

Which direction should you travel? Which side of the train?

The key is to ride the Causses line when the light is at its best. In 2026, the south-to-north direction was, from this point of view, the most rewarding:

Béziers 9:32 AM – Clermont-Ferrand 4:11 PM

Clermont-Ferrand 1:06 PM – Béziers 7:05 PM

The first schedule lets you enjoy daylight for most of the journey, unlike the return trip, the last leg of which takes place in the evening at certain times of year.

And as for the question "Which side of the train should you sit on?", honestly, I don't have the answer! The best approach is to stay mobile and switch sides depending on the landscapes and viewpoints that catch your eye.

Where should you stop along the way for sightseeing?

This is certainly a tricky question, since almost all 30 stations served between Béziers and Paris hold some touristic interest.

My research online led me to this selection of destinations that are easy to explore on foot right from the station:

• Béziers
• Roquefort
• Millau
• Séverac-le-Château
• Marvejols
• Saint-Flour
• Clermont-Ferrand
• Vichy
• Moulins
• Nevers
• Paris

This selection gave me an idea: one day putting together a comprehensive guide to all the sightseeing possibilities at every stop along the line! Maybe a future project for my blog?

How can you find out more about the Causses line?

All these resources are currently available in French only, but you can easily translate them using your browser's automatic translation feature.

I invite you to watch this fascinating film, made in 1996 by Pascal Bejui: Aubrac Express

This talk by Jean-Michel Biscarat and Gilles Degenève is aimed more at railway enthusiasts: L'histoire de la ligne des Causses (The History of the Causses Line)

Their book "L'épopée de la ligne des Causses" (The Epic of the Causses Line) can also be ordered from the La Vie du Rail website.

Finally, the Aubrac Regional Nature Park has recorded a fascinating series of podcasts about the Causses line to listen to during your journey!

Bon viatge!

Bon voyage!

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